We approach New Zealand’s capital by ferry from that country’s South Island. At first all we can see is mountains and sea. Wellington is around the corner in a sheltered bay and is revealed to us glimmering in sunshine only as we pass the headland. No wonder Lonely Planet named Wellington “the coolest little capital in the world” and fourth-best city in the world to visit.
Best because it is a capital with all attendant perks: stately buildings; handsome public spaces, parks and museums; posh hotels, restaurants and shops; long black limousines disgorging elegant people; theater; ballet; and — thanks to native son Peter Jackson — a thriving film industry. A “Lord of the Rings” tour is available.
Best because all of this is delivered in a city of only 200,000. It has what you want a city to have without sprawl, traffic and pollution.
Best because of location. Dangling from the southern tip of the north island, it gives access to both islands, and with its magical combination of mountains and sea, it feels like a small, walkable San Francisco.
Best because of its mild sea climate.
Four of us rented a “penthouse” in a slightly threadbare hotel at the top of the town. From its many windows and veranda, we could see everything: snow-capped mountains; the curving bay with its grand spaces and walks; the cable car that takes you up to botanic gardens and the Carter Observatory (stargazing is big stuff in the southern hemisphere) and their spectacular views; the Belgian restaurant where we ate green-lipped mussels that are as big as thumbs; the Te Papa Tongarewa National Museum, which is a perfect introduction to this lovely land; and the terraced hillsides of houses that are all windows and decks and seem to keenly appreciate where they have been built.
With its old-world heritage, new world beauty and relaxed 21st century lifestyle, New Zealand has been called England’s second chance. This time they got it right, and Wellington is the proof.
