It’s common to find copies of the Bible in hotel rooms across America. But at Debbie Jacques’ guesthouse, there’s a second book in the nightstand drawer: Vince Lombardi’s biography.
That’s fitting, because among Packers fans, the former coach is a saint. Lambeau Field sits along Lombardi Avenue. Jacques’ shrine, Under the Lights of Lambeau, is just across the street. A Lombardi lunchbox is among the hundreds of pieces of kitsch that adorn the home — from Packers-themed light switches to oven mitts to rugs. The walls are painted in the team colors: dark green, gold and white.
During the team’s nearly 100-year history, the Packers have won more championships than any other team in pro football (nine NFL championships and four Super Bowls). This season brought a near miss, a rather graceless one by team standards. But still, Green Bay appropriately calls itself Titletown. Throughout the city, all year long, the team’s unique history awaits, while in so many other NFL cities, fans try to forget — Bears fans often among them.
But if Bears backers can briefly drop their distaste for the rival team, the history here is entertaining and rather admirable, considering too that Papa Bear George Halas helped save Green Bay’s Packers at one point, realizing he needed the lively competition, by aiding the campaign to build Lambeau.
In tracking the history, there’s no better place to start than at the hallowed ground of Lambeau Field. Guide Candy Conard begins her tours with a couple of questions.
“How can a little town like Green Bay with 104,000 people have an NFL franchise for 95 years and a franchise that is so successful?” she asked at the start of a tour in November. “How do you that in this little community?”
As the tour continued to a skybox high above the field, Conard recounted how, in 1919, a young football player named Curly Lambeau founded the team with backing from a local meatpacking house.
“Curly Lambeau took his own money and bought a franchise for $250,” she began. “The last team who bought a franchise in the NFL … was the Houston Texans. They paid $700 million.
“It’s not possible for this story to repeat itself anywhere else,” she concluded, noting that the Packers are the only publicly owned football franchise. More than 360,000 fans own shares.
By the tens of thousands each year, tourists from around the world make their way through the stadium. For many, the highlight occurs when, as they stand beside the locker room, an overhead door rises and they head outdoors, to the edge of the field, through the same tunnel used by the players. The sound of cheering fans, pumped from a speaker, adds to the excitement.
Normally, a trip to Lambeau isn’t complete without a stop at the Packers Hall of Fame. But due to remodeling to be finished later this year, many of the exhibits, including the team’s Super Bowl trophies, are on display in a temporary exhibit at the Neville Public Museum in downtown Green Bay.
A life-size model of legendary quarterback Bart Starr, football in hand, greets visitors at the entrance to “Touchdown!” exhibit at the Neville.
Inside, individual lockers honor members of the Hall of Fame — players with familiar names such as Paul Hornung, James Lofton and Reggie White. Along with photos and career details, the lockers contain personal items such as helmets, jerseys and cleats.
The museum is the starting point for the Packers Heritage Trail, a collection of more than 20 historical sites across the city.
Commemorative plaques are posted outside the various sites, including the modest, red brick home in which Curly Lambeau was born in 1898. No longer a residence, the house can be rented for parties and other gatherings.
Lambeau’s house sits five blocks from Green Bay East High School, where he excelled at football. The field on which the school’s Red Devils still play is another stop along the trail. The old City Stadium is where the Pack played their home games from 1925 through 1956.
Other sites include St. Willebrord Catholic Church, where Vince Lombardi regularly attended morning Mass, and the old railroad station used by players back when the team traveled by train. The depot now houses Titletown Brewing Co., a popular restaurant and microbrewery.
Just a few blocks east of Lambeau, on a short street appropriately named Brett Favre Pass, sits the restaurant named for the famed quarterback who’s part owner. The Brett Favre’s Steakhouse is chock-full of Favre memorabilia — from the helmet he wore during his college years at Southern Mississippi to the trophy he was awarded as the NFL’s most valuable player in 1996.
The menu, copies of which are sold in the adjoining gift shop, includes a variety of steak and seafood items. It features jambalaya prepared using a Favre family recipe.
Diners, however, shouldn’t expect to see Favre moving from table to table signing autographs.
“We’ve not seen him since he played for the Packers, unfortunately,” restaurant manager Ryan Rieth said.
A three-story-tall replica of the Vince Lombardi Trophy, unveiled at Lambeau Field in November, attests to the Packers’ football prowess. Yet despite the team’s many championships, Green Bay will never host a Super Bowl. There simply isn’t enough infrastructure.
“We would need roughly 28,000 to 30,000 hotel rooms compared to the 4,300 we have currently,” explained Brad Toll, president/CEO of the Greater Green Bay Convention & Visitors Bureau.
Debbie Jacques’ guesthouse, which can sleep 10 people, is sold out well in advance of home games. She said even the Bears fans who stayed there in November were impressed with its unique decor. They were, however, glum when they departed the morning after the 55-14 trouncing by the Packers.
“They didn’t really say goodbye,” Jacques said, “but they said they’d see me next year.”
If you go
Getting there
About 31/2 hours north of Chicago, Green Bay is an easy stop along Interstate Highway 43 for people heading to Door County or on up to Michigan’s Upper Peninsula.
Staying there
If you want something beyond the chain hotels, Under the Lights of Lambeau (1845 S. Oneida St., Green Bay; 920-217-3632; underthelightsoflambeau.com) rents for $2,499 for a two-night stay on game weekends. Split 10 ways, that’s $250 per person. At other times, rates start at $150 a night.
What to see
Lambeau Field tours (920-569-7513; packers.com/lambeau-field/stadium-tours.html) start at $11 and are offered every day except Christmas and Easter.
The Neville Public Museum (210 Museum Place, Green Bay; 920-448-4460; nevillepublicmuseum.org) is open Tuesday-Sunday. Adult admission is $5.
A map and further details about the Packers Heritage Trail can be found online (packersheritagetrail.com).
The visitors bureau (888-867-3342; greenbay.com) provides information on dining, lodging and other attractions.
