Goats N Roses, Marlborough

Eclecticism rules at Kathy Denisiewicz’s restaurants. A touch of Asian, a touch of Mexican, French or Italian; a touch of breakfast: “We fuse crazy stuff together,” the chef, known to friends and family as Kasha, explains with a chuckle.

Each of her eateries has its own special mojo. At Glastonbury’s Spicy Green Bean, it’s funky bohemianism; at Shad Row in Rocky Hill, it’s a Huck Finn-like riverfront reverie. And now at Goats N Roses, a country theme park of American nostalgia, she’s found a setting to match her cooking for kookiness, comfort and just plain fun.

A spring-through-fall, outdoor-only restaurant, Goats N Roses opened last summer at the Carter Hill Farm in Marlborough. Part farm, part petting zoo, part Americana museum, the property is decked out with Firestone and Texaco signs, old Coke machines and vintage gas pumps (still set at 39 cents a gallon). A rusted-out pickup truck functions as a flower planter. Baby goats bleat, peacocks yowl.

In summer the farm — located, fittingly, on Route 66 — hosts music nights and drive-in movie nights. You can sleep at the adjacent B&B. And this is surely the only place in the world where you can have a beer on the patio bar while watching goats clamber across a house-high replica of the Arigoni Bridge.

Denisiewicz’s menu — a collaboration with her niece, Juliette Denis, who also manages the restaurant — channels kitschy exuberance via a brazen culinary mix-and-match. Some dishes represent artful upscalings of all-American favorites, like a trio of toasts involving avocado, bacon, goat cheese and tomato, a flashy cousin of the BLT sandwich.

Others are on loan from faraway cuisines, such as satay-like skewers of beef, grilled and finished off with a sweet hoisin glaze, served over sesame noodles. Oh, and a touch of Philadelphia: a cheesesteak sandwich, loaded with caramelized onions and melted American and cheddar. Tomatoes and avocado, added as a healthy note, have the decency to disappear entirely beneath the mountain of meat and bright orange lava of cheese.

These are bold colors, bold flavors. A melon salad mingles chunks of orange cantaloupe with cherry tomatoes, red onions and cucumbers. Dominican sausage tacos come bedecked with red onions pickled a soft purplish hue. Tostones, chewy and good, arrive piled with guacamole and stippled amply with lime crema.

Cubano sliders pile up a tower of pulled pork, ham, two cheeses, then slaw, then a pickle, then a tomato, and drizzle it not only with barbecue sauce, but bright yellow hot-dog-style mustard. There’s an “all this... and more!” quality that shouts, “Have a good time!” One small-plate dish situates three jumbo shrimp amid a parmesan-laden, extremely chunky tomato marinara. A short-rib appetizer captures just the right sweet-sour-vinegary note — and kicks the cole slaw up a notch with a surprise jolt of chili pepper.

There’s the rare lighter dish — like a salad of thin-sliced snap peas in a citrusy vinaigrette — but for the most part, calorie-counters should power down their calculators. A fritatta oozes eggy cheesiness, laden with sautéed mushrooms, caramelized onions and thick-sliced jalapeño-infused bacon lending a jumped-up breakfast-for-dinner feeling.

And Denisiewicz seems incapable of seeing a piece of bread she doesn’t want to soak in butter and then grill — whether the bun on your burger, the French bread underlying the lobster crostini or even the biscuits on a strawberry shortcake dessert. Sometimes, as in a veggie-centric sandwich of eggplant, arugula, tomato, roasted peppers and goat cheese, one might prefer plain bread, but more often you’ll be happy to ascend into browned-butter heaven.

And all the desserts are sized for giants — like the peanut-butter explosion, a triple-decker conglomeration of chocolate, cream, cake and peanut butter.

Pricewise, the restaurant can skew either down — with burgers, dogs and fries — or up, with entrees like a “Trio of Grilled Love” surf and turf, featuring jerk-flavored beef tips, shrimp and scallops, for $32. You decide the approach, and your final tab will follow. (Payment is cash only, with an ATM on the premises.)

Goats N Roses on a sunny day, packed with families having fun, achieves a zany kind of bliss. This is food that struts its colorful stuff, like those peacocks. And you’ll be the one yowling in delight.

86 E. Hampton Road, Marlborough ■ 860-295-1111 ■ juliette-denis.squarespace.com

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