Cora Cora: An Exciting Peruvian Journey

Hartford, do you know how lucky you are? One top-notch Peruvian restaurant would be cause for celebration, but this metropolitan area has several noteworthy spots for authentic ceviche, pollo a la brasa and anticuchos, thanks to a sizable population of Peruvians in the region.

West Hartford’s Cora Cora has been a standout among these restaurants for several years, transforming an old McDonald’s building into a destination for the exciting cuisine. Inside, it’s lost all traces of its former fast-food identity, with touches of native decor on the walls and a stuffed llama greeting you at the entrance.

The food itself is a study in fusion, as Peru’s dishes have been influenced not only by the indigenous Inca, but also immigrants from Europe, Africa and Asia. Chaufa – fried rice dishes sauteed with seafood and meat in soy sauce – sound like they’d be at home in Chinese restaurant, reflecting Eastern influence in the country. Tallarin verde con bistec, grilled ribeye with a pesto-like basil sauce and pasta, has obvious Italian roots. Arroz con mariscos, or rice cooked with a variety of shellfish, is similar to classic Spanish paella. “Novoandina” specialties highlight traditional Peruvian and Andean ingredients like quinoa, fava beans, indigenous corn and potatoes.

Not sure sure where to begin? The three-course weekday lunch special is a good opportunity to sample, particularly if you’re with a larger group. Offered from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., Cora Cora’s menu presents a choice of 8 appetizers, nearly a dozen entrees, three desserts and a non-alcoholic beverage for just $15. If you’re looking for the full Peruvian experience, you’ll skip the Coca-Cola products and head right for the chicha morada, a slightly sweet drink made from purple corn with pineapple and subtle spices like cinnamon and clove. And though the cancha (toasted corn kernels) with zesty aji sauce will prove to be an addictive pre-meal snack, save room and energy for the taste journey ahead.

A friend and I played mix-and-match with our lunch orders, splitting an excellent ceviche de pescado with citrus-cooked fresh fish (tangy and spicy with Peruvian pepper) and the lightly-fried jalea mixta, crisp breaded pieces of fish, calamari, shrimp and mussels served with thick planks of fried yucca and a tart red onion salad. An entrée of lomo saltado – beef tenderloin sauteed with tomatoes and onions in Peruvian pisco – was served with double carbs, the stir-fry topping French fries alongside a mound of white rice.

More fries accompanied my friend’s plate of pollo a la brasa, a quarter-chicken rotisserie-cooked to a gorgeous golden-brown. Each of our main courses showcased perfectly tender meat, but the pollo was the star of the two – Peruvians are known to work magic with their chicken, and Cora Cora is no exception. Suddenly, it made sense why our server had placed a container full of wet-wipes on our table; I guess it’s acceptable to use your hands to work every last bit from the skin and bone.

After the flavor thrills of our first two courses, we’d nearly forgotten about our promised dessert, but our sweet endings of crema volteada (Peruvian creme caramel) and tres leches cake wrapped the meal nicely. The classic pisco sour, made with the grape brandy, egg whites, citrus juice and Angostura bitters, is a must if you’re visiting during an acceptable drinking hour. …Or even if you’re not. When in Peru….

>>Cora Cora, 62 Shield St. in West Hartford, is open Monday, noon to 9 p.m.; Tuesday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m; Saturday, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.; and Sunday, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Information: 860-953-2672 and coraperu.com.