There’s a place for “footlong burritos” and endless baskets of free chips and salsa, but that place is not Sayulita.
But those familiar with Bill and Adam Driggs won’t be surprised that the brothers’ latest eatery raises the bar for traditional Mexican cuisine. Named for the scenic surfing destination north of Puerto Vallarta, the South Glastonbury restaurant in a restored Main Street colonial evokes sun, surf and sand through its light and vibrant dishes and airy design.
The restaurateurs also own and operate neighboring 2Hopewell, an upscale American bistro, and Birch Hill Tavern on Manchester Road, a gastropub with a focus on craft beer. Sayulita was born out of Bill Driggs’ desire to enjoy an elevated version of Mexican food, beyond the heavy, deep-fried, sauce-coated preparations found on many Tex-Mex menus.
Driggs worked with developer Skip Kamis on a shared vision for the renovation, which became a light-filled space with booths and tables crafted from reclaimed lumber.
“It’s a little bit rustic and a little bit industrial,” he said. The walls are adorned with photographs of the Mexican village. “I’ve been there three times. It’s a great place to go and relax. Just that kind of lifestyle, sitting on the beach with a margarita, enjoying life.”
The face behind the sophisticated menu, Van Hurd, is a recognizable one, both to Connecticut diners and fans of “Hell’s Kitchen.” The Texas-raised chef appeared on the sixth season of Gordon Ramsay’s FOX reality competition. After the show, Hurd came to Connecticut in 2009 at the urging of fellow contestant Kevin Cottle, who encouraged him to join the country club team. He held roles at Jordan Caterers and Water’s Edge Resort & Spa before taking the executive position at Sayulita. “I’ve had good luck in Connecticut,” he says.
In Dallas, Hurd honed his fine-dining skills at the famed French Room. “I like to get a little fancy with my food. That’s where Mexican food misses out sometime. It’s really good cuisine and it’s really trendy right now,” he said. “I think we’re right on the edge of doing something really special here.”
Sayulita’s menu features several traditional plates, but even the classics are characterized by fresh preparations and high-quality ingredients. Tacos are filled with lobster and black truffle, braised pork with caramelized pineapple, sesame-seared tuna and wild mushrooms with kale and huitlacoche. Hurd stuffs tamales and burritos with braised short rib, green chili pork and red quinoa. But there are nods to New England as well: Bomster scallops from Stonington steal the spotlight in a ceviche presentation with citrus, jalapeno and jicama; and Hurd puts a Mexican spin on “clam chowda” with roasted corn and poblano peppers.
The most popular dishes include guacamole and a salsa flight, lobster enchiladas with sherry habanero creme and fajitas – steak, shrimp or achiote chicken, served sizzling over a bed of onions, peppers and grilled calabacitas. Sayulita uses Brandt natural beef and antibiotic-free Bell & Evans chicken.
“There’s a considerable difference” in the meat quality, Hurd said, and the restaurant supports a network of local Glastonbury farms, among them Littel Acres, Preli, Rose’s Berry and Killam & Bassette Farmstead.
Snacks, starters, soups and salads are $6 to $12; fajitas are $20 to $23, burritos are $16 to $18 and large plates are $15 to $24. Tacos a la carte are $4 to $6; tamales are $5.
Hurd takes the opportunity to experiment with frequent specials. Recent creations include a bacon-wrapped “Tijuana dog” taco with avocado, short rib pupusa, white clam quesadilla, duck confit tacos with Luxardo cherries and fried chicken with bacon churros, maple syrup and pineapple.
Such sweets as chocolate tres leches cake with bruleed bananas, hazelnut anglaise and Kahlua gelee and coffee-caramel flan round out the menu. The miniature churros are a best-seller, served in a small paper bag with accompaniments of chocolate ice cream, chocolate sauce and dulce de leche.
Sayulita’s bar business is brisk as well, with nearly 60 tequilas and a variety of margaritas and Mexican-inspired cocktails. Bill Driggs brought Joshua Packtor on board to run the beverage operation, drawing upon Packtor’s decade of bar and restaurant management experience in San Diego.
Driggs says Sayulita’s early feedback has been positive.
“There are some people that aren’t on board with what we’re trying to do, but those who understand are really excited about it,” he said. “Everything is fresh, from scratch, housemade. We don’t cut corners on the quality of the ingredients just because it’s a Mexican restaurant…Yes, it’s a little more expensive, but the quality is there.”
“I think it’s a good spot for what we’re doing,” Driggs says. “It gives people who live down here in South Glastonbury another reason to stick around this area, and I think it’ll be a concept that’s going to draw people to this area. Ultimately, it’s a destination village. People have to have a reason to come down here; hopefully this adds to that.”
>>Sayulita, 865 Main St. in South Glastonbury, is open Monday through Thursday, 4:30 to 9 p.m.; Friday, 4:30 to 10 p.m.; Saturday, 1 to 10 p.m. and Sunday, 1 to 9 p.m. 860-430-9941, cantinasayulita.com.
