Travel to Hawaii -- shark cage diving

Sharks circle a shark cage tethered to a boat three miles off Oahu. (Brian J. Cantwell, Seattle Times, MCT / November 1, 2012)

"And don't tell the competition, but we have the same engine as the crabber, so the sound is the same," Whyte added. "It's like the ice-cream truck!"

He advised our group to watch for tagged sharks, an indication they have a transmitter in their belly, part of a University of Hawaii study in which his company has taken part.

We soon arrived at the shark cage, which our crew had brought out and tethered to a mooring at first light. After a few instructions, during which she looked almost as green as distant Kaena Point, Creameans was first into the cage. She splashed, ducked under, then quickly surfaced and called out, "They're here!"

Whyte grinned and mimicked her words. "'They're here!' Isn't that like what they said in 'Jaws' or something?"

These typically are sandbar sharks and larger, 8- to 9-foot Galapagos sharks, Oury said. "They're a very bold shark, not afraid to come up to the boat. But in all our experience over the years, they're really docile animals."

For what is billed as an educational experience, there wasn't a lot more educational talk, though the crew was happy to answer questions.

Once in the water, I ducked my mask under and there they were, indeed: battleship gray, six or eight or more at a time, circling the cage and the boat. Big dorsals, like ax heads, and long, dagger-pointed tail fins slicing the sea.

They glided without apparent effort, studies in streamlining, against an endless backdrop of blue water. I couldn't stop looking. I took big gulps of air and dived toward the bottom of the cage, where the water was calm and quiet. Some came nosing up curiously. I felt awed, not threatened.

Oury had loaned me his underwater camera, a soap-bar sized GoPro Hero. In about 20 minutes I shot more than 70 photos, sometimes daring to stick my hand out through the cage. But not for long.

We saw one tagged shark. Another had a fishing hook embedded in its snout.

Back on the boat, a warm shower from a spray nozzle felt great, though I really hadn't gotten cold in the tropical water, even without a wet suit like my cohorts wore.

"That was awesome," said Jessica Creameans, the San Diego daughter.

I asked about the little feeding frenzy. Oury said he had dumped some old tuna. I had noticed some white flecks in the water. It wasn't a lot but it was food the sharks liked.

So maybe as a policy they don't feed the sharks, but this day sharks got a little treat. Draw your own conclusion.

The real "Jaws" moment was when I was catching my breath at the water's surface, looking out from the cage, and saw a high dorsal fin break the water and dart quickly toward me.

The reaction was visceral. It was like looking up railroad tracks at a locomotive's headlight and I was driving the stalled car. Cue the scary music:

"Ba-dum, ba-dum, BA-DUM …"



Two guide services offer shark-cage dives off Oahu's North Shore. Both operate out of Haleiwa Small Boat Harbor, about an hour's drive from Waikiki, and go out several times a day dependent on weather: