There’s never a bad time of the year to be in the Canadian Rockies.
But with all respect to winter skiing and summer hikes, fall — and the high-elevation leaf-turning color within — is legendary at what is, without hyperbole, one of the world’s great, stunning landscapes, and a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site.
I didn’t find much reason to spend time in the town of Banff itself, which is a bit schlocky, overbuilt and aggressively touristy. The two-story buildings lining the main street are made to look quite mountainy (wood trim, pointy roofs straight out of a Swiss village), and there is plenty of wholesome goodness to amuse tourists, from women dipping chocolates in storefront windows to adventure outfits touting their most recent safari sightings (“Large herd of big horn sheep, male and female elk, one black bear” followed by a smiley face).
But my most rewarding time in the Banff and Lake Louise area was undoubtedly outside of town, exploring the gorgeous terrain. And no matter the time of year, there is no shortage of things to do and see, and methods for seeing the area. Here is how to see Banff:
On foot
There is no better way to experience the absolutely spectacular scenery that is Banff than on two feet in Banff National Park. I opted for the hike through Johnston Canyon, which is relatively popular for the first 1.7 miles to the Upper Falls — a glorious rock-face waterfall tumbling into a blue-green pool — but gets decidedly quieter for the rest of the trek, another two miles to what are called the Ink Pots: still, lovely pools in a field surrounded by craggy peaks. The Ink Pots, and the quiet of being the only person in such a pristine location, were what made the hike worth doing.
(Bonus: on the drive out of the park, I saw a black bear toddling around the side of the road as cars stopped and clicked away. The bear was obviously used to being a star attraction and barely seemed to notice.)
Another popular jaunt that’s highly recommended is a walk around Lake Louise. Two of the most popular spots to visit are a pair of tea houses. The spring day I arrived at Lake Louise, the area was hit with a late season snowstorm, which made for quite a dreamy and memorable view of the lake. (Incidentally, the storm didn’t prevent tourists from walking around the edge of the lake with umbrellas and an even more daring set from pushing into the lake in a red canoe.)
The truly adventurous can take aim at the Via Ferrata, a climbing trail on which hikers are secured to the rock with a harness and steel cable. That includes a new six-hour route that includes a walk across a suspension bridge over a deep chasm.
On bicycle
Biking is a year-round pursuit in the Canadian Rockies. The three (mostly) snow-free seasons are the busiest for biking, and many locals swear it is the best single way to experience the region. Banff National Park is home to nearly 120 miles of mountain bike trails, plus the options for road biking are vast (and, oh my, those views). A more recent trend is winter mountain biking with fat-tire bikes.
Banff Cycle (www.banffcycle.com) offers bike concierge service: drop-off, door-to-door rentals, along with guided rides. Snowtips-Bactrax (www.snowtips-bactrax.com) also offers rentals, including bikes outfitted for winter.
By car
I rarely make a point of suggesting driving in a location, but the Canadian Rockies are just so stunning that they make for some of the most scenic driving imaginable. No matter where you stay in the area — Banff, Lake Louise or elsewhere — you can head out in nearly any direction and spend a day being wowed.
One of the most iconic drives is the 40-mile stretch of the Trans-Canada Highway that links Lake Louise to Jasper. No list of “Ten Most Scenic Drives” is complete without it. Keep traveling north beyond Lake Louise on Provincial Highway 93 and you’re on the 140-mile long Icefields Parkway, which in an out-and-back makes for a very full day or driving the Canadian Rockies — or better two days if you spend a night in Jasper.
The joy in any driving trip is going as slowly as desired and pulling off as often as you like. That’s extra true in the Canadian Rockies.
If driving isn’t your thing, there are plenty of bus tours too.
On skis/snowboard
Beginning in November, shortly after the leaves fall, Banff National Park’s three major resorts — Norquay, Lake Louise and Sunshine Village — are accessible as “The Mountain Collective” (www.skibig3.com). One lift ticket gets you access to all three ski areas, which include 8,000 skiable acres. Shuttles to all three areas run from downtown Banff, and the cost is included in a lift ticket. The region claims its snow is some of the “lightest and driest” in the world.
This being Canada, they also take cross-country skiing quite seriously, with a broad network of groomed and marked trails.
Other
What truly makes the Banff-Lake Louise area special is the “other.” There are so many fun and creative ways to experience the area, including snowshoes (many hiking trails are also designated for snowshoe use), and guided snowshoe hikes are available at several outfitters in town. Banff also offers adventure by canoe and kayak (www.banffcanoeclub.com), backcountry horseback trips (www.horseback.com) and even helicamping (www.rockiesheli.com), which is just what it sounds like: a helicopter drops you off deep in the remote Rockies for two or three days of guided wilderness hiking, camping and meals.
In a truly glorious part of the world, there is something for everyone.
More information on all activities, plus lodging options, at www.banfflakelouise.com.
Twitter @joshbnoel
