On a cross-country ski trip in central Maine with the Appalachian Mountain Club, Alan Spier, of Glastonbury, was sleeping in his cabin when nature called. He pulled on his headlamp and boots and stepped into the forest. As he trekked across the snow to the outhouse — a solitary figure under a star-studded sky in the 100-Mile Wilderness —- he experienced the wonder of winter in an off-the-grid paradise.
“It’s unusual to extol the virtue of walking to an outhouse in the middle of the night, but that’s part of the adventure,” says Spier, who drives seven hours from Connecticut for lodge-to-lodge skiing on the AMC’s 66,500 acres of conservation land near Moosehead Lake. “You have a great sense, which you often don’t get in New England, of escaping from most of civilization.”
Spier is one of many cross-country skiers who is heeding the call of the wild. On the AMC’s self-guided back-country trip, skiers travel to three rustic lodges — positioned between six and nine miles apart — on a network of more than 80 miles of groomed trails maintained by the organization. By day, skiers trek by lakes and ponds, negotiate hills, and soak up views of Maine’s highest peak, 5,268-foot Mount Katahdin. At night, they enjoy a home-cooked meal, a cozy bed, and the company of fellow travelers.
“It’s a winter adventure without the peril,” says Spier, who joined the AMC in the 1960s. “You don’t have to make all the arrangements to organize yourself in the deep woods.”
Over time, the AMC, the nation’s oldest conservation and recreation organization, founded in 1876, has acquired increased acreage in the 100 Mile Wilderness region, near Moosehead Lake. The AMC operates two lodges, Little Lyford Lodge and Cabins and Gorman Chairback Lodge and Cabins, both historic sporting camps, and partners with a third, West Branch Pond Camps, run by the same family for five generations. Since the purchase of Little Lyford, which has nine private cabins and a co-ed bunkhouse, in December 2003, guest-nights at AMC’s Maine Wilderness Lodges have increased by an average of 23 percent annually. Though the cabins are also open in summer and early fall, winter excursions are particularly popular.
“One thing people notice on a clear night is how bright and plentiful the stars are, since there are no nearby sources of artificial light,” says the AMC’s Rob Burbank. “If you’ve ever seen satellite images from space of the Northeast at night, the darkest spot is this part of Maine.”
Being off the grid — the lodges don’t have TVs and cell service is limited — is a plus for Connecticut skiers who want to leave traffic and technology behind. Driving in his Volkswagen Jetta, it takes Spier seven-and-a-half hours (mostly on I-95) to get to Greenville, Maine, (population 1,600) the gateway to the AMC lodge adventure. From town, it’s a 25-minute drive on an unpaved road to the AMC’s winter parking lot. There, guests can turn their luggage over to AMC staff, who transport gear to the lodges via snowmobile. From the lot, travelers ski on trails, ranging from 6 to 8 miles, to Little Lyford or Gorman Chairback.
Though the AMC patrols the trails, conditions can be unpredictable. “One time, we were skiing in a big storm,” says Spier. “It was a beautiful storm. We didn’t have tracks. We had to break them as we went along.”
While some prefer to ski solo — content to connect with others at mealtimes — others travel with friends or family. Last year, Jennifer Golec, of West Simsbury, made a three-day, two-night trip with two friends; the women are in their 40s and 50s; all are experienced skiers.
“After a great breakfast we were off to Little Lyford,” Golec wrote in her journal. “Another blue sky day with beautiful ski conditions. Had some awesome downhills where I actually turned corners just by edging! We all felt like professional cross-country skiers.”
The women spent about four hours on the well-marked trails each day. Though it was 12 degrees and windy, the aerobic activity warded off the chill, says Golec. The friends stopped for photos or to eat their bag lunches when the spirit — or the scenery — moved them.
“Here’s my rule of thumb,” says Golec. “If you can hike seven or eight miles, have been on cross country skis before, and are comfortable reading a map, you should do fine on the lodge-to-lodge trip.”
Golec and her friends enjoyed time together and apart. One afternoon, while her friends savored the sauna at Little Lyford, Golec donned snowshoes and climbed Laurie’s Ledge on Indian Mountain. That night, the group gathered at a long table with other guests for dinner.
“One of the best things about staying at the AMC lodges is the opportunity to meet fun, interesting people,” Golec says. “There were lots of families at Little Lyford. My friends played Monopoly with some enterprising kids, one of whom was very strategic and won handily.”
If she plays her cards right, says Golec, she’ll be back in the 100-Mile Wilderness sometime soon.
FAQ
Frequently asked questions about the Appalachian Mountain Club’s lodge-to-lodge ski adventure:
Q: How much ski experience do I need?
A: The trip is geared to advanced beginners and intermediate skiers, as it involves cross-country skiing on groomed (not tracked) trails of varied terrain, including hills, in the back-country. Families are welcome.
Q: What are the lodging options?
A: At Little Lyford and Gorman Chairback, travelers can choose between sleeping in a co-ed bunkhouse (the most affordable option) or staying in a private cabin with a woodstove; neither has electricity. Both AMC camps have central lodges with composting toilets, hot showers and wood-fired saunas.
Q: Do I need to be an AMC member to book a trip?
A: No, though there is a reduced rate for members.
Q: How much does the AMC lodge-to-lodge adventure cost?
A: A two-night adventure for non-members starts at $305 for adults (18+), including meals and lodging in a private cabin; $178 for ages 13 to 17.
Q: How long is the drive to Greenville, Maine?
A: From Greater Hartford, it takes about seven hours to get to Greenville (most of the trip is I-95), then a 25-minute drive to the AMC’s winter parking lot. Connecticut travelers suggest driving to Greenville on Friday, staying in a local motel on Friday night, and starting the lodge-to-lodge adventure on Saturday morning.
Q: What supplies do I need?
A: A trail map and compass, extra fleece or wool or windproof, waterproof outer layers and socks, face/eye protection, a headlamp, waterproof matches, a sleeping bag, a towel, batteries, and earplugs (recommended by travelers who have stayed in the bunkhouse). For a complete packing list, go to http://www.outdoors.org.
Q: Can I snowmobile on the trails?
A: Though AMC staff transports luggage to lodges via snowmobile, the public cannot snowmobile on the trails to the lodges. Skiing, walking, and snowshoeing is fine. Additionally, the AMC can put guests in touch with local mushers to arrange a lodge-to- lodge trip via dog sled.
Q: Could I hire a guide?
A: The AMC offers guided lodge-to-lodge ski trips and can design custom trips for private groups.
Q: How do I plan a lodge-to-lodge adventure?
A: Go to www.outdoors.org or call 207-358-5187.
