The sun has begun its descent over Salamander Resort and Spa, and a young woman clad in chaps and black riding boots sits astride a gray quarter horse, preparing for what’s known here as the evening salutation.
Gently waving a white, gold-fringed flag with the property’s signature blue Salamander logo, she and the gelding slowly circle the manicured “grand lawn” a few times before trotting off into the sunset.
It’s a charming way to signal the end of the day — just one of the many equestrian, culinary, wellness, literary and artistic pleasures that await guests at this getaway in the heart of Northern Virginia’s horse country.
Unveiled in 2013, Salamander is on 340 acres near the historic village of Middleburg in Loudoun County. Its location in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains is remote yet not too far away — about a two-hour drive from Baltimore.
Architecturally, the resort resembles a grand manor, one designed to meld with the surrounding environs, and the eco-friendly building is LEED-certified. The region is dotted with estates, horse farms and vineyards that produce grapes for more than 50 Virginia wineries.
The landscape is bucolic, with rolling hills, birds and wildlife. Even bees are in residence, their hives used to make honey for the onsite restaurants.
And now that autumn’s foliage has ushered in kaleidoscopic colors, the countryside is especially picturesque.
“I wanted people to come and experience this beautiful destination,” says Sheila C. Johnson, founder and CEO of Salamander Hotels and Resorts, a company that owns and operates upscale properties and golf courses in several states.
Johnson is an entrepreneur and philanthropist who co-founded Black Entertainment Television in the 1980s; its subsequent sale to Viacom made her a billionaire.
“When I bought the [land], a voice in my head told me that I had a rare opportunity to bring tourists to this area and help them discover its beauty, too.”
Guests at Salamander run the gamut: families with kids, couples, Hollywood celebrities, Washington politicos, corporate groups and girlfriends on getaways.
On the afternoon of my arrival, the resort was bustling. At the end of a meandering driveway, the portico was lined with limos, executive sedans and sports cars. A crew of crisply dressed staffers welcomed a steady flow of guests, including a wedding party.
Salamander’s accommodations include 168 spacious rooms and suites with views of the property. Furnishings are traditional and sophisticated, which describes the overall style of the resort.
All guest rooms feature separate seating and dining areas, an executive-style desk, flat-screen televisions, a mini-bar and fridge, and bathrooms with a pedestal tub, rain showers and double marble vanities. Some rooms/suites open out onto a stone terraces or balconies with outdoor seating; still others have electric fireplaces.
On the walls of my suite were two pretty photographs of nature scenes. I later learned they’d been taken by Johnson, who has snapped pictures during her global travels.
Indeed, art fills every nook and cranny of the resort — from photography to sculpture to paintings. There’s the work of artist Jane Waterous, whose “Unbridled Series” promotes the “beauty and grandeur” of the horse. Striking prints by resort staffer J. Douglas, an artist who specializes in realistic renderings, are sold in the gift shop.
In addition to aesthetic pleasures, myriad activities abound at the resort.
Guests are offered a dizzying array of options — from nature tours to swimming and tennis. Golfers can enjoying outings to a Jack Nicklaus signature course at nearby Creighton Farms Estates.
Yoga on horseback? A cabernet wine body massage in the 23,000-square-foot spa? Ahhh.
Want to whip up a meal in cooking classes? A special studio awaits. Bibliophiles can select from hundreds of books in the library. Adventuresome guests can enjoy paintball, glow-in-the dark croquet, zip lining, and aqua Zumba in one of the resorts’ three pools.
Add to that twilight biking, morning hiking and bird-watching, including a falconry course.
A centerpiece of Salamander is its equestrian center, complete with a 100-year-old refurbished barn, 22-stall stable and riding arena, and miles of trails.
Equestrian director Sheryl Jordan said programs range from riding instruction to “horse whispering” classes. “Horses are emotionally sensitive and they tap into our energy,” said Jordan. “We can learn so much from them.”
Guests can recharge at the Salamander Spa, a gorgeous space with 14 treatment areas, whirlpools and steam rooms, plus an outdoor courtyard with an infinity pool, private cabanas and a cafe.
The spa draws visitors like Karen Miller, a consultant who lives in Owings Mills. “My trip was a little R&R, a little romance,” said Miller, who reported that this was her second stay at Salamander. “It’s lovely and totally relaxing.”
Salamander has become a popular destination for visitors from Maryland and the region, according to resort sales manager Julie Banner, who grew up in Baltimore.
“That’s mainly attributable to our proximity and the amount of different activities you can experience at both the resort and in Middleburg,” she said.
Just a few minutes from the resort is the small town of Middleburg (population about 780), founded in 1787 by a Revolutionary War hero. Centuries-old tradition of foxhunts, steeplechases, jumping and polo solidified its reputation as a horse and hunt capital, which drew wealthy denizens.
Middleburg’s compact downtown district is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Spanning a few blocks, it’s a quaint mix of art galleries, antiques and gift shops, clothing boutiques, ice cream parlors, museums and cafes, including Market Salamander, which offers gourmet fare in a casual setting.
“I feel the resort has had a very positive impact on the town,” says Betsy Davis, mayor of Middleburg and a lifelong resident. “The shopping and dining has helped the economy, and the taxes have increased our coffers.”
Despite some community resistance when Johnson first proposed the project, the mayor noted that the resort has since become a gathering place, not only for visitors but for neighbors. “It’s a lovely place to stop in for a meal or a drink. They have events and programs and share with us. I feel it’s an asset to the town.”
For Johnson, Salamander has been a special labor of love. “I try to make sure I’m at the resort as often as I can,” says the mother of two, who resides on a nearby Virginia farm with her husband. “I want to be more than an owner. I want to touch and feel people’s emotions, and make sure they’re well taken care of. That’s the thumbprint of the Salamander.”
If you go
Salamander Resort & Spa
The resort is at 500 N. Pendleton St., Middleburg, Va. Rates in fall begin at $350 per night. Fall packages are available with some including resort credit. For more information, go to salamanderresort.com or call 866-938-7370.
