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World War I (1914-1918)

Flavor Profile: Pepe's Pizzeria Napoletana in Fairfield

Fresh clam pizza is what defines Pepe's for me. Whenever I go there, that's what I order. I'm hooked. The other week, Gary Biamonte, grandson of Frank Pepe, who opened the original Pizzeria Napoletana in New Haven, came to the Fairfield Pepe's and got me to try a few others. He showed me the history of Pepe's in its pies. The story starts with the crust. That hand-formed, thin, charred crust is the foundation of the pizza and the business. Frank Pepe started as a baker. He arrived in New Haven in 1909, an illiterate boy from Maiori on the Italian Amalfi Coast. After working in a factory and returning to Italy to fight in World War I, he came back to New Haven and...