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Appalachian National Scenic Trail

Chasing fall's colors in Virginia's picturesque Shenandoah Valley

LURAY, Va. Some years ago, fresh out of college and poor as church mice, my husband and I set out on our great honeymoon adventure. Our three-day drive from Pittsburgh to jobs in Miami would take us through Virginia's picturesque Shenandoah Valley. To humor my father, we agreed to stop at Luray Caverns. Good call, Dad! Discovered in 1878 and named a National Natural Landmark in the early 1970s, the 64-acre series of subterranean rooms and passageways proved pretty amazing, despite a hokey tour that takes visitors more than a mile and 160 feet below the surface. "If you use your imagination," our elderly guide kept parroting, we'd see the likes of fried eggs, ice...