Billy Sunday

A sojourn in temperance country

A sojourn in temperance country

WINONA LAKE, Ind. — With its pastoral setting, the BoatHouse Restaurant makes the perfect place to enjoy lunch or dinner while swans drift by on Winona Lake.

The menu suggests ice tea, lemonade or milk for beverages. Though there's no mention of alcohol, beer and wine are available. However — in a throwback to the small town's Bible-thumping, teetotaling days — visitors still have to go to neighboring Warsaw to find hard liquor.

"Whiskey and beer are all right in their place," the town's most famous resident, Billy Sunday, once said. "But their place is in hell."

Even though the famous evangelist's campaign against alcohol goes back more than a...