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Dalai Lama

Going to Kangra Valley, India, for a spot of tea and spirituality

Going to Kangra Valley, India, for a spot of tea and spirituality

The soft tapping on the door awakened me. It took me an instant to realize that I was not on the overnight train from Rishikesh with a towel wrapped around my face to keep out the stench of an overflowing toilet. And I didn't hear the irritating man in the compartment opposite who had spent the entire night yelling "Hello? Are you there?" every time he lost his cellphone connection.

Instead there were birds singing in the wild cherry trees and the smell of pine.

At the door was the watchman who had brought us to our cottage in the chilly pre-dawn hours after a 3-hour car ride from the Pathankot train station.

"Chai?" he asked, nodding sideways at...

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