| Jun 1, 2015
| 6:05 PM
I have about as much in common with an airline pilot, an air traffic controller, an orthopedic surgeon, a volunteer coordinator and an aspiring singer as I do with, with, well, a shoemaker.
But that is who my wife Lois and I dined with Thursday night,...
| Mar 17, 2015
| 3:27 PM
The ancient Celts were a people of the forest. They used a lot of wood in their daily lives, for housing, cookery and art. Sometime around the 5th century B.C., they came up with an ingenious new way with wood; they formed it into barrels, for storing...
| Aug 28, 2014
| 1:04 PM
It took cheese to teach me how good white wine is.
When you travel, you notice that more people drink white wine rather than red with their cheese, unlike Americans. There's nothing wrong with drinking red wine with cheese; it's just, to be blunt,...
| Aug 2, 2014
When I consider the world's various chardonnays, especially as they express themselves in hugely different styles given their place of origin, I think of the keyboard of a piano.
Low-profile unoaked chardonnays, from very cool climates such as...
| Aug 2, 2014
A certain class of seafood could be called "cows that swim" or "steers with gills." The fish are meaty, fleshy, sometimes rich in fat, can take to a grill and are best served slightly rare at the center. Sounds like a beefsteak because that's their twin....
| Dec 1, 2014
| 1:52 PM
We know Champagne as a singular wine, in at least two meanings of that word.
It's exceptional, isn't it? Nothing quite like it, this wine that smiles.
But it also presents itself as complete and finished, a wine as a singularity, from the...
| Apr 9, 2014
| 8:33 AM
Passover begins at sundown Monday, and of course many of Chicago's restaurants are eager to help. Here are a few options; unless noted otherwise, special dinners are available Monday and Tuesday.
Di Pescara: Seder plate and traditional dinner; kosher...
| Mar 31, 2015
| 10:06 AM
The nicest thing about recommending wine to Gen Xers and Gen Yers is that they don't have ear lids. Tell them that riesling is the world's greatest white wine grape and they say, "OK, cool; so show me."
You hand them a glass of well-made Mosel; they...
| Aug 12, 2014
If you want a sauvignon blanc that tastes like the Loire's Sancerre — citrusy, scented of minerals and finishing with zippy acidity — you can buy it from Chile. If you want a sauvignon blanc that's like those from the warmed vineyards of...
| Mar 13, 2014
There are hidden gems, and then there are hidden gems. Waterleaf restaurant, for instance, isn't a good restaurant where one wouldn't expect to find it; it's a good restaurant tucked away where you'd never think to look for it.
Waterleaf sits on the...
| Mar 31, 2015
| 10:07 AM
In the beginning, wine was like ice cream; there was only chocolate and vanilla — aka cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay. When people wanted a red wine, they asked for cabernet. When they wanted white wine, for chardonnay. This lasted for years....