| Aug 2, 2014
A certain class of seafood could be called "cows that swim" or "steers with gills." The fish are meaty, fleshy, sometimes rich in fat, can take to a grill and are best served slightly rare at the center. Sounds like a beefsteak because that's their twin....
| Dec 1, 2014
| 1:52 PM
We know Champagne as a singular wine, in at least two meanings of that word.
It's exceptional, isn't it? Nothing quite like it, this wine that smiles.
But it also presents itself as complete and finished, a wine as a singularity, from the...
| Apr 9, 2014
| 8:33 AM
Passover begins at sundown Monday, and of course many of Chicago's restaurants are eager to help. Here are a few options; unless noted otherwise, special dinners are available Monday and Tuesday.
Di Pescara: Seder plate and traditional dinner; kosher...
| Apr 7, 2015
| 3:00 AM
Q: Does wine in screw top bottles age as well as wine in bottles with a cork?
—Andrew Maselli, Chicago
A: Knowing there's rarely a simple answer when it comes to wine, I reached out to an expert at the University of California at Davis and asked...
| Feb 12, 2014
| 11:19 AM
I don't know when "shareable" became attached to "small" in the dining realm, but waiter patter has included the phrase "small, shareable plates" — spoken without a trace of irony — for some years now.
And even though it makes no sense...
| Mar 31, 2015
| 10:06 AM
The nicest thing about recommending wine to Gen Xers and Gen Yers is that they don't have ear lids. Tell them that riesling is the world's greatest white wine grape and they say, "OK, cool; so show me."
You hand them a glass of well-made Mosel; they...
| Dec 23, 2014
| 10:11 AM
After our son Colin was born, in January 1983, I began a search for a red wine that I could buy from that year, then cellar for a while and begin drinking for special occasions in his life.
Worldwide, the vintage of 1983 was spotty. Some nice Tuscans...
| Oct 10, 2014
| 12:35 PM
This month and next, I profile the wines made along the two great wine rivers of France, the Loire and the Rhone.
Near Lyon, the two rivers pass within 30 miles of each other, flowing in opposite directions, the Loire to the north and the Rhone to the...
| Oct 3, 2014
| 3:14 PM
The world makes most of its wine from grapes grown in a band of vineyards that necklace the globe, in either hemisphere, between the 50th and 30th degrees latitude. Fruit crops cannot grow reliably above or below those marks. Not much reason to build a...
| Jan 20, 2010
Randall Grahm is the legendary founder of California's Bonny Doon Vineyard, noted for creating delicious Rhone-style wines. He is an innovator not only in the vineyard, where he fearlessly experiments with different grape varieties, but also in the...
| Sep 26, 2014
| 10:45 AM
My favorite part of any wine talk that I might give is when I'm done — not because the talk is over but because, before it's over, I get to answer people's questions. I loves me my Q&A. Here are some recent questions about wine that I've been asked,...