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How to make the Filipino dessert halo-halo like a world-class pastry chef

How to make the Filipino dessert halo-halo like a world-class pastry chef

In the hands of a gifted chef, a dish can operate rather like an object lesson, the pattern of sauce and arrangement of ingredients demonstrating her relationship to a cuisine, a memory, a culture. Consider Margarita Manzke’s halo-halo, a dish she grew up eating as a kid in the Philippines, learned long ago to make herself and now has translated to both of her Los Angeles restaurants — a little Filipino food stall and an ambitious French bistro.

Halo-halo — “mix mix” in Tagalog — is a deeply emblematic dish, sold on street corners in the Philippines and lately in restaurants all over America as part of the recent

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