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Essentials: New finds and old favorites in California's Napa

Sunlit hills of lush green vineyards, blue skies, fine red wines: Some things about wine country never change. But others do, like where to eat, stay and play. Here's a roundup of what's new and what's worth revisiting in California's Napa Valley. ____ WHAT'S NEW A decade or so ago, the city of Napa, at the southern end of the valley, was a place you drove through. Now it's a destination with dozens of restaurants, tasting rooms and revamped or new hotels. Stroll along the riverfront — in the evening when the lights come on is the prettiest time — and check out shops and restaurants like Morimoto Napa (from Masaharu Morimoto of "Iron...