D-ID (Denim Identity)
Quilting from a leather menswear jacket inspired the distinctive diamond stitching that is the signature of D-ID, or Denim Identity, the new line designer Jimmy Taverniti debuted last month.
"The whole print trend is slowing down, but the customer still wants [something] novel. This is a new way of doing a print that is a little more sophisticated," says Shane Markland, D-ID sales director, who also oversees much of the brand's marketing and has worked for clothiers Goldsign, Notify and Current/Elliott.
The textural diamond stitching is applied to jeans with light and dark washes, waxed coating and one faux leather style, as well as classic jean and moto jackets, which top off the line.
FOR THE RECORD:
New denim: An article about new jeans collections in the Aug. 25 Image section said the name of the creator-designer of McGuire Denim is Melissa McGuire. Her name is Marianne McDonald. —
Originally from France, Taverniti's first collection was J. Taverniti; his designs have a European aesthetic, yet he has always been heavily influenced by American vintage style and developed new vintage washing effects.
"He kind of invented the use of the garment-dying process in denim, like over-dyed grays and over-dyed blues," says Markland.
Crafted of Italian and Japanese fabrics, half of the D-ID line is made in Los Angeles and half in Asia. "The complicated styles [quilted] are done in Asia, and the basics are made in L.A," Markland says. "If we did these in the U.S., a $180 jean would become a $350 jean. We use the same fabrics; it's just the actual production that is done there."
The best-selling jeans so far are the skinny ankle, biker and moto styles — the black quilted Moto jean has been selling out, so expect more moto styles to come. New coatings will be added for holiday. Also coming in the spring are shorts, beat-up washes, more jackets and a new riff on quilting that looks like a grid pattern of miniature holes, as if the threads had been washed out, explains Markland. How ingenious: denim that looks as if it has come completely undone.
D-ID, $148-278 at singer22.com, revolveclothing.com or d-idjeans.com
On a trip to Nimes, France, said to be the birthplace of denim, Melissa McGuire was inspired to create a new denim line with a nod to the fabric's workwear origins. The city's symbol, a crocodile chained to a palm tree, appears on the buttons of her new McGuire Denim line, which launched last month.
"I think a lot of [labels] make references to workwear, but none of them really capture it being relevant for an urban environment like New York or Los Angeles; they stay a little bit too literal," says McGuire, who formerly worked as a designer with Joe's Jeans and Gap. "I felt like there was really a need to do something that combines elements of workwear, but made much more modern and sexy."
That translates into skinny carpenter jeans, engineered piping inspired by traditional railroad uniforms, exposed zippers and vintage washes. Stitching on the back pockets is purposely imperfect, and the design is a stripped-away M that is actually an inverted W, inspired by an old Austrian worker's guild symbol, according to McGuire.
Another signature of the line is the high-rise and mid-rise silhouettes, that she says are a "little more sophisticated and sexy" that the ubiquitous low-rise.
The collection is made completely in Los Angeles with stretch fabrics from Italy and Turkey.
Beyond jeans, the fall line includes a jean jacket, a flared skirt, two chambray shirts and a quilted chambray fencing-style jacket that sold out at Ron Herman in two days. The flared Voyage Trouser with railroad piping also sold out.