Galicia, the Celtic region in the northwest corner of Spain, produces beguiling whites from the native Godello grape, which had almost disappeared until it was rediscovered in the 1970s. One of the best is Val de Sil from Bodegas Valdesil made from 100% Godello that sees no wood. The Prada family, which owns the estate, first planted Godello in 1885, so they have long experience with grapes grown on terraces overlooking the Sil river.

Gold, with glints of green, the 2005 has a scent of pear and peach or apricot, a little grass too. The taste is ripe and smooth with a refreshing citrus and mineral bite, which makes it a natural with food.

It's wonderful with salmon or red snapper, but it also has enough gumption to accompany a chicken fricassee or a mushroom tart.

--S. Irene Virbila

Region: Valdeorras, Spain

Price: $15 to $18

Style: Ripe and minerally

Food it goes with: Seared scallops, seafood curry or a mushroom tart.

Where you find it: John & Pete's Fine Wines & Spirits in West Hollywood, (310) 657-3080, www.johnand; K&L Wine Merchants in Hollywood, (323) 464-9463, www.klwines.com; Larchmont Village Wine, Spirits & Cheese in Los Angeles, (323) 856-8699; and Silver Lake Wine in Los Angeles, (323) 662-9024, www.silverlake.