Hard to believe that with the dollar having sunk so low against the euro, it's still possible to find a truly entrancing bottle of white burgundy for less than $30. Pierre-Yves Colin is producing an impressively polished Mercurey called "Les Vérissées." The appellation is certainly humble enough, yet he's made a lovely floral blanc with a bracing minerality and notes of citrus, pear and toast.

Open a bottle as a summer evening's aperitif or to drink with a warm seafood salad, seared scallops or a simple grilled fish. The production is low, so when this wine is gone, it's gone.

-- S. Irene Virbila

Region: Burgundy

Price: About $26

Style: Floral, yet crisp

Food it goes with: Warm or chilled seafood salad, seafood risotto, grilled fish

Where you find it: Greenblatt's Deli & Fine Wines in West Hollywood, (310) 656-0606; Larchmont Village Wine, Spirits & Cheese in Los Angeles, (323) 856-8699; and Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454 and (800) 769-4639, www.winex.com.