David Hirsch of Hirsch Vineyards has produced some renowned Pinot Noirs from his sprawling Sonoma Coast estate. They're very good. And very expensive. But the estate also makes a second label called "The Bohan-Dillon," which is much more affordable. About one-third of the fruit comes from Hirsch Vineyards, mostly younger vines, and the remainder from neighboring estates. The Bohan-Dillon is made exactly the same way as Hirsch Vineyards' higher-priced Pinots.

The 2010 is selling for about $28 if you can still find it; the 2011 is a little more expensive. Both are graceful examples of Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, with a soft, silky texture, a backbone of acidity coupled with a tangy minerality and slow-ripened fruit that tastes of plums and dark cherries. Ready to drink now (or cellar for a couple years), the Bohan-Dillon is brilliant with a simple roast chicken, grilled lamb chops, roasted root vegetables or a Chinese chicken salad.

Region: Sonoma coast

Price: $28 to $38

Style: Elegant and balanced

What it goes with: Roast chicken, lamb chops, Chinese chicken salad

Where to find it: K&L Wine Merchants in Hollywood, (323) 464-9463, http://www.klwines.com; the Wine House in West Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731, http://www.winehouse.com; Woodland Hills Wine Co. in Woodland Hills, (818) 222-1111, http://www.whwc.com; and other fine wine shops.