Thai curry noodles, left, and a green papaya salad.

Thai curry noodles, left, and a green papaya salad. (Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times / December 13, 2012)

Chiang Mai-style curry

6 1/2 hours. Serves 8 to 12.

Housemade red curry

1 ounce (about 60) dried red chiles

About 2 3/4 tablespoons (.8 ounce) white peppercorns

About 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon (.55 ounce) whole cumin seeds

About 3 1/2 tablespoons (.63 ounce) whole coriander seeds

About 1 tablespoon plus 1/8 teaspoon (.4 ounce) brown mustard seeds

About 18 cloves (2 1/2 ounces) garlic, minced

About 3 inches root (2.2 ounces) fresh ginger, minced

About 1 stalk (2.2 ounces) lemongrass, minced

1.13 ounce minced cilantro roots or stems (stems from about 1/2 of a 4-ounce bunch)

About 4 cloves (6.25 ounces) shallot, minced

About 3 tablespoons (2.125 ounces) shrimp paste

4 1/2 tablespoons fish sauce, preferably 3 Crab

Zest from about 3 limes (.625 ounce)

1 tablespoon grapeseed oil

1. Rehydrate the dried chiles by submerging them in a bowl of hot water until softened, 10 to 20 minutes. Drain.

2. Meanwhile, toast each of the spices individually. Place the peppercorns, cumin, coriander and mustard seeds in a dry skillet and heat over medium heat until aromatic, 2 to 4 minutes depending on the spice. Using a mortar and pestle, or in a spice or coffee grinder, grind the spices until smooth.

3. Grind the chiles, ginger, garlic, lemongrass, shallot and cilantro roots in a food processor or using a mortar and pestle.