Cut

Rating: ***

Location: The Regent Beverly Wilshire, 9500 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, (310) 276-8500; wolfgangpuck.com

Ambience: Elegant Richard Meier-designed contemporary steakhouse with an A-list crowd and a very urban energy. Though prime steaks -- and true Kobe beef from Japan -- star at this Wolfgang Puck restaurant, it offers a broader, and more interesting menu, than most steakhouses, along with stellar sides and desserts.

Service: Deft and professional, attentive but not intrusive.

Price: Salads and starters, $14 to $24; steaks, $34 to $160; other main courses, $32 to $80; sides, $10; desserts, $14.

Best dishes: Kobe steak sashimi, foie gras pave, lobster and crab "Louis" cocktail, dry-aged New York sirloin, Japanese Kobe beef, rotisserie duckling, creamed spinach with fried egg, potatoes "lyonnaise," chocolate souffle, mille feuille with strawberries.

Wine list: Eclectic, wide-ranging wine list with reasonable markups for a hotel restaurant. Wine service is impeccable. Corkage, $25.

Best table: One of the round tables near the window.

Details: Open 5:30 to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 5:30 to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday; Sidebar is open 5 p.m. to 1:30 a.m. Monday through Saturday. Full bar. Validated valet parking, $10.

Rating is based on food, service and ambience, with price taken into account in relation to quality. ****: Outstanding on every level. ***: Excellent. **: Very good. *: Good. No star: Poor to satisfactory.