Ambience: The interior looks like a it could be a crab restaurant on Maryland's Eastern Shore outfitted with simple captain's chairs, lace curtains adorned with sailboats, six aquariums, the Maryland flag and copies of Baltimore magazine. Tables are set with white paper tablecloths and rolls of paper towels.
IF YOU GO
607 Ridge Road, Lantana
Hours: lunch weekdays, dinner daily, opens at 2 p.m. Saturday and Sunday
Reservations: suggested for parties of 5 or more
Credit cards: all major
Sound level: conversational
Outside smoking: yes
For kids: children's menu, high chairs, booster seats
Wheelchair accessible: yes
- Peanut Butter
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Entree excellence: You may differ on the ingredients of a good crab cake, but no one would complain about Riggins' Baltimore Crab Cakes ($21), which feature plenty of lump crab with little filler, a creamy texture and a touch of Old Bay Seasoning. Baked Crab Imperial ($21) had a subtle spiciness that also met expectations. Skip the orange glazed salmon ($21), which sounded better than it tasted and had some skin attached to the filet. Broccoli Alfredo would please most, but it lacked the finesse those used to fine dining expect.
Side issues: Our dishes came with the house coleslaw, one of the best I have eaten and good enough to convert someone who isn't a coleslaw fan. Diners get a choice of one side including very good rice pilaf and linguine with marinara sauce. Skip the baked potato, which was mealy.
Sweet!: Our server told us the only dessert made in house was the chocolate banana peanut butter pie ($6) and we were glad we took his advice. The banana mellows out the peanut butter for a delightful combination that could have been ruined with too much peanut butter. Although the server said Key lime pie ($5) was his favorite, we found it too sweet with not enough key lime tang that classic versions offer.
Service: Servers are down-home friendly and helpful. Our waiter went beyond the call of duty, donning gloves to help a novice at the next table learn how to pick the hard crabs.
Insider tip: Forget the mixed drinks and go such boutique beers as Try Monk in the Trunk ($5) from Jupiter Brewing C. or any of the seasonal offerings ($5) from Vermont's Shipyard Brewing Co.
Contact dining correspondent Charlyne V. Schaub at firstname.lastname@example.org.