Tippi Hedren

How to enjoy Sonoma County beyond the vines

How to enjoy Sonoma County beyond the vines

There was no need for the morning fog to chill the air. It was chilly enough without fog. A dozen or so people on the bluffs at Bodega Head were staring at the Pacific Ocean, looking for whales.

"You see spouts, and maybe a back," a woman said, her stylish binoculars at rest for the moment. "People who were here earlier this morning said they saw four."

I wasn't there earlier and didn't stay long that day and never made it back, so this day I never saw whales. But I know that up and down the coast, from Bodega Head on the south to Gualala Point to the north, if you time it right and the leviathans cooperate: whales.

And you don't need a flight of...