Walking around Madison, I suddenly felt a sharp pain in my leg. What was poking me?
Turned out my pocket was full of toothpicks from all the cheese curds I'd sampled at the farmers market. It was one of several "Welcome to Wisconsin!" moments, starting with a display of orange "cheesehead" gear — worn by fans of Wisconsin's NFL team, the Green Bay Packers — that greeted me at Milwaukee's airport. Later in my trip, I got these directions to a cheese store: "Take a right and look for the cow."
I spent as much time admiring the Milwaukee Art Museum outside as I did looking at the art inside. From...