Chicken Charga

The deep-fried Chicken Charga from Sabri Nihari on Devon Ave. (David Pierini/Chicago Tribune)

Five nights out of seven, I’m dining out for work, enjoyment, and to fulfill some sadomasochistic need. That averages to 25 plates of food to try every week. Sadly, the Tribune does not have enough newsprint to document all the great dishes I’ve sampled, so this morning’s Ten@10 includes recent restaurant favorites rescued from my notebook.

Octapodaki Skaras at Pegasus
Charcoal-grilled octopus, disarmingly tender, with the standard-issue olive oil, lemon and oregano. Sometimes the simplest, most unadorned dishes are the most satisfying.
130 S. Halsted St. 312-226-3377

Ducktrap River Smoked Salmon at Dirk’s Fishmarket
It’s smoked salmon with the raw texture of Nova lox, thanks to a cold smoking process that imbues the fish with the sweet smoke of cherry, oak, maple and apple.
2070 N. Clybourn Ave., 737-404-3475 

Fried Chicken at Dee’s Place
A gem of a soul food restaurant in Wicker Park with a terrific house fried chicken. Thin, crisp, crackly skin from the lightest of flour dredges.
2114 W. Division St., 312-348-6117 

Chicken Charga at Sabri Nihari
More crispy bird, this time a Pakistani take on Devon. A chicken is battered in chickpea flour, then fried whole. There’s tactile pleasure in ripping the spicy chicken apart at the table.
2502 W. Devon Ave., 773-465-3272 

Curry and Cheese-Flavored French Fries at Gabutto Burger
Ordinary but decent-enough shoestring fries are transformed to Japanese novelty after a dusting of curry and cheese powder.
100 E. Algonquin Rd., Arlington Heights, 847-472-8855 (Inside Mitsuwa Marketplace) 

Crab-Pork Soup Dumplings (Xiaolong bao) at Tao Ran Ju
Since we’re not in Flushing, this will have to do. These delicate, explosive broth bags might be the finest Shanghai soup dumplings in a city with few options.
2002 S. Wentworth Ave., 312-808-1111