Maine's Mount Desert Island: Fresh Dining In A Natural Paradise

MOUNT DESERT ISLAND, MAINE — After a last day of hiking at Maine's Acadia National Park, creeping up the steep face of Precipice, the hand-over-hand ascent on the east side of Mount Desert Island, we decide to reward ourselves with dinner out. We mean way out — as in five miles offshore.

We step aboard the evening ferry from Southwest Harbor to Little Cranberry Island. The ferry captain, a 25-year-old who has run this route since she was 13, pushes off. We'll be landing on Little Cranberry, like a map dot out of Moonrise Kingdom, in about 20 minutes.

Acadia has an astonishing range of trails for such a small park: everything from short loops at the water's edge...