Sandra Lawler was all grown up and had left her Boston home before she realized that not everybody serves lamb on Easter.

"I moved to Chicago, and they were serving ham, and I said, 'What is this? Who eats ham for Easter?'"

The chef at Baltimore's Feast @ 4 East on Madison Street is expecting 50 family and friends for Easter dinner this Sunday, and she will be serving lamb, of course. But it is on the menu at her restaurant almost every night, too.

Braised lamb shanks. Stuffed boneless lamb roast. Lamb chops. Even lamb salad.

"And if friends come to dinner and they want to know what we are having, it will probably be lamb."

Lamb doesn't scare Lawler the way it does some cooks, who might be intimidated by the size of a leg of lamb or its price tag. Earthquake and severe weather issues in New Zealand and Australia have driven prices even higher recently.

"And I think cooks can be afraid that it will have a gamy taste. But this isn't the mutton your grandmother used to make," she said.

In Lawler's kitchen, cooking lamb is as easy as cooking any other meat. "Slather it, roll it and put it in the oven," she said. "It's a roast, for heaven's sake."

For Lawler, the "slather" is usually a good Dijon mustard. And she most often "rolls" the meat in fresh chopped rosemary. But she might also use crushed pistachios or a sumac rub. Or she might marinate chops in an herbed lemon and olive oil mixture.

Lamb can indeed be fatty, and it takes trimming — especially a leg of lamb. But the upside is that there will be plenty of pan juices for sauce or gravy.

She purchases only New Zealand lamb because it is free range and no antibiotics are used on the animals. And every time she finds it on sale, she buys it and tosses it in the freezer.

"You are going to pay $6 or $8 a pound for a roast or chops, but for a while there, it was up to $21 a pound for a rack of lamb," she said.

She does, however, purchase locally produced ground lamb from a purveyor she trusts not to use fillers.

Lamb, she says, can make the recipe jump from France and Italy to the Middle East without missing a beat.

She serves it with mint sauce or chutney, which is traditional. And she braises lamb shanks with root vegetables, onion, garlic, tomatoes, red wine and herbs, serving the rich and meaty ragout over mashed parsnips or couscous.

But she also likes the way lamb mixes with cinnamon, or with apricots, figs and honey. And she has also baked lamb chops in grape leaves. She saves the stalks from rosemary to use as a bed for smoking lamb on the grill or for skewering kebobs.

Repeating the cooking axiom that you can't undo brown meat, Lawler likes her lamb rare, so she is likely to roast it until the internal temperature is only about 130 degrees, assuming that it will continue to climb while the meat rests.

"When you slice it, there will be well done pieces at each end with pinker slices closer to the middle, something to please everyone," she said.

"You never had to worry about lamb leftovers in our house," Lawler remembers. Good bread and some mayonnaise with a slice of warmed lamb is among her favorite childhood memories: "I can't think of anything better."