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Phil Vettel

Review: Formento's earns 3 stars

Review: Formento's earns 3 stars

Formento's is a restaurant filled with happy contradictions, a classic-Italian concept that makes room on the menu for quail saltimbocca, and a dining room that exudes neighborhood charm while packing a wine list that would be the envy of many fine-dining restaurants. Formento's, which opened in January, is a refined restaurant that makes it look easy. Chef Tony Quartaro, who worked with Nate Appleman at A16 in San Francisco and Paulino in NYC, has a way of tweaking tradition that convinces you that this is how these dishes ought to be. That saltimbocca, for instance, traditionally calls for veal. Quartaro pounds out a whole, sage-rubbed quail and rolls it with prosciutto and...

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