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Jonathan Gold

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Top Jonathan Gold Articles see all

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  • At Porridge and Puffs, spoonfuls of devotion in every bowl

    At Porridge and Puffs, spoonfuls of devotion in every bowl
    We all have particular ideas of what a porridge restaurant might look like, whether a Hong Kong-style congee shop like Delicious Corner in Monterey Park or a Taiwanese porridge hall like Lu's Garden in San Gabriel, Atlacatl and its list of Salvadoran atoles, the Koreatown pumpkin-porridge specialist Bon Juk or Veronica's Kitchen in Inglewood, with its Nigerian fufu menu.
  • At Scopa, Antonia Lofaso delivers zesty Italian American food

    At Scopa, Antonia Lofaso delivers zesty Italian American food
    It's pleasant, Saturday brunch at Scopa Italian Roots, a bit of calm compared with the roar of nearby Abbot Kinney Boulevard. The filtered sunlight in the double-height dining room feels like late afternoon, although it is just after noon. Big tables of...

    Nozawa Land keeps growing; what it means for L.A. sushi

    Nozawa Land keeps growing; what it means for L.A. sushi
    When I first went to Sushi Nozawa near the end of 1987, I was mostly impressed with its rigor. The fish was good enough, the usual parade of tuna, yellowtail and mackerel, but there was a sign that read, "Today's special: Trust me," and the chef, Kazunori...

    Review: Koreatown's Saint Martha a shotgun marriage of opposites

    Review: Koreatown's Saint Martha a shotgun marriage of opposites
    Your opinion of Saint Martha, a cramped new bistro in a Koreatown mini-mall, will probably correlate pretty closely with your view on steak and oyster tartare, the default signature dish. The tartare appears on the short menu under the heading Rawesome....

    Szechuan Impression skewers all expectations

    Szechuan Impression skewers all expectations
    Bobo chicken, at least as interpreted at Szechuan Impression, is a party in a pot, a ceramic pot that strongly resembles a novelty St. Patrick's Day hat, half-filled with chile-laced broth and with long bamboo skewers sticking up from the vessel in almost...