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Peter Marteka    Peter Marteka

Machimoodus State Park In East Haddam A Treasure

September 5, 2008

Loosely translated from the Native American, "Machimoodus" means "how the heck did this beautiful state park go unnoticed for so long."

OK, it really means "place of bad noises" because of the sounds the movement of the earth makes along a fault line running deep underground in a section of East Haddam known as Moodus. But Machimoodus State Park, a fairly new state park, is an absolute treasure, with stunning views of the Salmon River cove, the Connecticut River and the hills of central Connecticut. The only noises heard during a recent visit were the "ohhs" and "ahhs" of people at the overlooks.

Acquired by the state Department of Environmental Protection shortly after industrialist Raymond Schmitt passed away in the late 1990s, the long-abandoned farm property sat unused for several years. Then a dirt road was built, along with a parking area and signs along Route 151 welcoming hikers, picnickers and dog lovers to the 300-acre state park.

Unfortunately, visitors to the park are on their own when it comes to navigating the trail system. There's no map, either online or at the park's kiosk. But fortunately there's no shortage of helpful fellow visitors. After noticing that there was no map, I asked a woman who was playing fetch with her dog in one of the park's ponds. She said the trail system was pretty simple.

"It's really beautiful," she added quickly as I made my way along a dusty farm road.

Turns out that was an understatement, as the easy-to-follow farm road twists and turns up to the first overlook, a side trail along an impressive ancient stone wall. The trail leads to a view of Johnsonville in the valley and the surrounding hills of East Haddam. Schmitt created Johnsonville, a replica of an 18th century Victorian village, soon after he purchased the Neptune Twine and Cord Mill Factory in the mid-1960s.

Traveling throughout New England, Schmitt purchased a schoolhouse, chapel, general store and a livery stable. He had them dismantled and brought piece by piece to Moodus, where the buildings were restored. After the restoration, the buildings were filled with all sorts of antiques and period pieces. Everything was auctioned in the late 1990s after his death, including a stern-wheeler riverboat anchored in the mill pond — a purchase from Freedomland, a defunct New York amusement park.

The trail continues down to a second overlook with a panoramic view of the Salmon River and, in the distance, the Connecticut River and the ancient swing bridge connecting East Haddam and Haddam. The trail then plunges through a hemlock and oak forest and across a wooden bridge to yet another overlook. The third overlook has the clearest views of the Salmon River cove and has benches for sitting. The field is filled with wildflowers and Queen Anne's lace, a wild carrot with huge white flowers.

For all you bird-watchers out there, the park is a great place to set up a tripod or just come with a pair of binoculars, as the variety of avians is impressive. There are huge fields that are left alone all summer, and the number of grasshoppers flitting past and butterflies floating from flower to flower is incredible. Dog lovers may enjoy the open spaces with their leashed canines. Visitors on horseback can easily navigate the wide-open trails, and the huge parking lot is a boon for trailers.

Unfortunately, the loop along the vistas seems to end much too soon, and you are returned to the ponds and parking lot. After this visit, another translation of Machimoodus might be "a wonderful visit that ends too soon."

The park is located along Route 151/Route 196 in Moodus. The park is open to horseback riding, fishing and hiking.

Column ideas and suggestions are welcome. Peter Marteka can be reached by phone at 860-647-5362; by mail at The Courant, 200 Adams St., Manchester, CT. 06040; and by e-mail at pmarteka@courant.com.

E-mail: pmarteka@courant.com

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Hiking One Of Connecticut's Newest State Parks
(PETER MARTEKA)



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