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Where: 705 W. Colonial Drive, Orlando (west of Interstate 4 at Putnam and Parramore avenues); small parking lot in the back
The lowdown: at the edge of College Park, the Beefstro occupies a former dart shop. The building has been transformed into a clean and roomy self-serve eatery and, yes, it delivers the goods and then some. Guests order at the counter, fetch their soft drinks and the food is brought out to the tables. Inside there are booths and seats along a bar. The Italian beef ($5.49) is seasoned and served on French bread. For 30 cents you can add either a dunk in the beef juices (say yes, or you will miss out on an authentic experience), a sweet pepper topping or hot giardiniera (a relish of pickled vegetables my Chicago in-laws buy by the case). The double sausage is a hefty sandwich of grilled mild Italian sausage. The meatball sandwich, also a behemoth, included tennis-ball size spheres of medium-packed meat drenched in a lightly-herbed marinara sauce. The sauce was slightly salty but in a good way. The acidity and complex flavor notes enlivened the meat. The Italian sub will draw "oohs" and "aahs."The rolled salami, capicola, ham, provolone, shreds of fresh lettuce, sliced tomatoes, sweet onions, piquant pickles, sweet peppers and cherry peppers were seasoned in the traditional manner with oil and vinegar, dried oregano and a light touch of salt and pepper.
April 24, 2013