Peach souffle

A custard base lends a creamy texture and rich flavor to frozen peach souffle with raspberry sauce (Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times)

Think about homemade ice cream, creamy and cold and full of fresh fruit flavor. Think about ice cream so light it seems to float off the spoon. Think about ice cream that comes to the table not in cute little scoops, but a good 5 inches deep, so tall it towers above the dish.

You're not thinking about ice cream at all; you're thinking about a frozen soufflé.

Now you're never going to catch me saying anything bad about ice cream, particularly the homemade kind. But ice cream has a certain aesthetic. It's homespun, like summer evenings on the porch with an old-fashioned wood-slatted churn and a box of rock salt.

A frozen soufflé offers a decidedly different approach, sheer as chiffon and drop-dead elegant.

There are really two slightly different styles of frozen soufflé; which you choose will depend on what kind of dessert you're looking for. Both are relatively easy to make -- only a little more complicated than homemade ice cream -- though they both require a bit of attention to process.

One frozen soufflé is light and airy and offers direct, clean flavors. It's based on what's called an Italian meringue, essentially beaten egg whites that have been cooked by slowly pouring in a very hot sugar syrup while the mixer is still running.

The other is creamier, with a rich eggy flavor underpinning whatever else you decide to add. You base this one (technically a Bavarian cream) on a kind of custard -- egg yolks cooked gently with sugar until they're thick.

Neither of these processes is for the kitchen newbie. Eggs are notoriously temperamental, and if you're not comfortable beating egg whites to a stiff peak, you're probably not quite ready to whisk in a softball sugar syrup to finish the meringue, either.

But if neither of those tasks scares you, you'll find that these recipes come together easily and the results certainly outweigh the slightly higher degree of difficulty. The key is organization -- and having a good supply of mixing bowls at hand.

Before you begin, have the fruit cooked, strained and cooled (a food mill will purée and strain the seeds and peels at the same time). Have the egg whites at room temperature and the whipping cream chilled to ensure you get the most volume out of each. Have the collar attached to the soufflé dish. Now you're ready to go.

Cooking the custard

To make the custard base, whisk egg yolks and sugar in a mixing bowl you've propped over a bowl of simmering water. You want to cook them over gentle heat, so don't let the water boil and don't let the the bowl touch the water. Also, lift the edge of the bowl from time to time to let some steam escape. (Careful, it's hot! Use a dish towel or oven mitt.)

The egg yolks will turn pale gold and then swell and thicken. You'll know the mixture is ready when it is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon and when you don't feel any raw sugar when you rub a bit of the custard between your fingers.

Don't look now, but you've just made zabaglione (if you whisk in some Marsala or another flavoring) and you're well on your way to crème anglaise (if you stir in scalded milk and cook until that thickens).

Now fold the puréed fruit into the custard, fold the custard into the egg whites and fold the egg whites into the whipped cream. In the case of the egg whites and whipped cream, you'll get better results if you lighten the base with a bit of each before adding the rest.

Fold gently, but mix thoroughly. Remember that egg whites and whipped cream are mainly masses of air bubbles that will make the soufflé light and delicate if you keep them intact, or heavy and dense if you don't.

Use a spatula to cut straight down into the center of the mixture and then gently scoop and fold over top. Turn the bowl as you're working. It'll probably take a dozen folds to get a homogenous mix.

Gently pour the mixture into the prepared soufflé dish and freeze. It'll take at least four hours to get solid, and after that it'll last for a day or two without any ill effects. Bring it out to warm slightly before serving. The texture should be creamy, not icy.

Eye on the meringue