New faces at old fashion labels
When Karl Lagerfeld arrived at Chanel in 1983, the label had degenerated into a glorified fragrance business. But during his tenure, he's turned Chanel into a global force and ushered in a new era in fashion. This "Lazarus movement" has inspired dozens of others to try reviving old-fashioned labels with new designers. Here are a few of them, along with what the labels were known for when they were founded, and what they are known for today.

Alexander McQueen

Founded in 1992.

Then: Provocative clothes, such as low-riding "bumster" trousers; provocative runway shows with live wolves, human chess pieces.

Now: Catherine Middleton's wedding gown. Romantic, British, pagan-influenced clothes with couture-level handiwork. Designed by McQueen protégé Sarah Burton, who has softened his edge.


Founded by Cristobal Balenciaga in 1918.

Then: Sculptural, modern cuts, sack dresses, Spanish influences.

Now: Futuristic shapes, innovative fabrics such as fiberglass foam and neoprene, "Motorcycle" handbags. Designed by Nicolas Ghesquière, a self-professed sci-fi enthusiast.


Founded by Pierre Balmain in 1945.

Then: Elegant dressmaking, 1950s high feminine style.

Now: Ultra-expensive rock 'n' roll crystal-studded jackets and slashed jeans, reviving the Michael Jackson "Thriller"-era look. Designed by Olivier Rousteing, following Christophe Decarnin's dismissal in March.

Calvin Klein

Founded in 1968.

Then: Minimalist sportswear in muted colors, provocative advertising, Brooke Shields jeans ads, Marky Mark underwear ads, heroine chic.

Now: Minimalist sportswear and gowns, such as the cantaloupe-colored dress worn by Emma Stone at the Golden Globes in January; inexpensive licensed denim, underwear and sportswear lines. Runway collection designed by Francisco Costa.


Founded by Céline Vipiana in 1945.