Owner-chef Alexander Alioto, scion of one of San Francisco's noted political and culinary families, opened this cozy (just 38 seats) storefront restaurant in 2010. A starter of Parmigiano-Reggiano chips ($4), drizzled with 20-year-old balsamic, took the edge off while waiting at the even tinier bar. The house-made tortelli with wild mushrooms ($21), sauced with brown butter and thyme, were light and silky, but left me lusting after my neighbor's country-style pork chop with duck fat-roasted potatoes ($27). 1550 Hyde St.; (415) 775-1550, http://www.sevenhillssf.com. Open 5:30-9:30 p.m. Tuesday-Thursdays and Sundays, 5:30-10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. Reservations a must.
Wally Skalij / Los Angeles Times
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