Lori Shepler / Los Angeles Times
The Bazaar's Philly cheese steak
The ebullient Spanish chef José Andrés has blown in from Washington, D.C., to open the Bazaar by José Andrés (yes, that's the official moniker) in the new SLS Hotel on La Cienega Boulevard. And it's quite the movable feast, with a sprawling louche bar, two tapas bars (Rojo and Blanca, traditional and modern, respectively) plus a pastry boutique with a long table and throne-like chairs that could be the setting for the Mad Hatter's tea party. A specially outfitted cart turns out foie gras cotton candy, waiters proffer liquid "olives" to pop in your mouth, and the tapas bars have some really beautiful jamón. But for sheer magic, try Andrés' unique take on the all-American Philly cheese steak sandwich, this one presented on gossamer-light "air bread" filled with a light cheese foam and topped with paper-thin slices of barely seared Kobe beef. Just two or three bites, it's a wonderful introduction to the delights of tapas Jose Andrés' way.
The Bazaar by José Andrés, SLS Hotel, 465 S. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, (310) 246-5555, www.slshotels.com.
Photo: The Bar Centro area of the Bazaar by Jose Andres.