Black miso cod, the dish that launched the Nobu restaurant empire, is a highlight of the menu at Pink Sumo, a cozy, yet stylish, café specializing in sushi and sake in downtown Westport. Order it while you peruse the large, wordy, choice-filled menu.
Black cod, also known as sablefish, has buttery flesh. The dish, invented by Nobu Matsuhisa, was inspired by a traditional curing method, fermenting fillets in sake lees, the dredges of the fermentation barrel. In the Nobu version, the fish is marinated for a couple of days in a sweet sake-miso mixture. The fish is broiled and the skin crisped.
At Pink Sumo, black cod with miso ($14) is served on a dramatic, long, narrow plate. The black-skinned filet, glistening beneath the sweet miso glaze, rests a raft of bright green, crisp-tender asparagus. The fish flesh is silky and tastes rich and round with umami flavors. Dots of miso sauce decorate the plate, and we use it to flavor the not-just-decorative delicate salad of sprouts, white turnip and radish.
From the cold Sumotizers, as they’re called here, Uni Scallop Carpaccio ($16) tops a thinly sliced scallop with sea urchin, which bathed the scallop in a gentle sea flavor. A spicy, lemony sauce and sliver of jalapeño lend heat. Ribbons of cucumber are lemony.
Monk Fish Liver Tataki is another dish from the Nobu playbook. The “foie gras of the sea” is anointed with black caviar that pop in the mouth, served with citrusy ponzu sauce.
My friend doesn’t eat raw, so we order a Rock Roll from the special rolls section of the menu (lunch special rolls are $10; lunch classic rolls are $4). This fancy roll is crunched with shrimp tempura and cucumber and soothed with avocado, and is flavored by the sweet barbecue glaze on the broiled eel. The size is just right, and the roll is formed and cut into easy-to-eat pieces, which adds to the complete satisfaction of the rice, seaweed, fish and vegetables.
A big bowl of seafood udon noodle soup ($16) mixes shrimp, scallops, squid, clams and shiitake mushrooms. But Pink Sumo also serves stir-fried udon noodles $10). The thick wheat noodles have a springy texture and caramelized flavor from sautéed chicken, onions and mushrooms.
Our waiter is smiling and friendly, and service is quick. Dishes are served in a succession that allows us to enjoy each, ending with the filling noodles.
The space, a former bank vault, has been transformed into an intimate space that doesn’t feel subterranean. The wood walls are cozy, white leather banquettes and chairs comfortable. The full bar offers premium sakes, and the spicy margarita with jalapeño was made with sake, too. The pink lights that glow on the front of the bar are fun, and we’ve heard good things about Pink Sumo’s happy hour, which is 3 to 6 p.m. daily.
>>Pink Sumo, 4 Church Lane, Westport, is open Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; and Sunday 12 to 10 p.m. Information: 203-577-8080 and pinksumoct.com.
