When the first Little Pub opened in Ridgefield in 2009, it was an instant success. The place had a great look, rustic and old world, with architectural salvage from old barns and churches: hand-hew post and beams, metal chandeliers and sconces, lit by old-fashioned Edison lights and faux flickering candles.
Now Little Pub has opened its fourth location — this one in Fairfield, on Black Rock Turnpike — where it’s drawing crowds of Stratfield and Easton neighbors to the former Black Angus. The other Little Pubs are in Wilton, Greenwich and Ridgefield.
The 66-year-old Black Angus in Dolan Plaza has been transformed into a cozy, Little Pub with creamy white walls against worn, gray wood framing. A ceiling-high fireplace made of field stones divides the main dining room. Tables are plain wood, bare. The lighting — chandeliers, sconces and wide candles — is soothing and cool-looking.
Little Pub serves contemporary pub food. But wait — you’re probably going to have to wait. On a recent Monday night, people were milling about outside Little Pub and impatiently jammed into the front waiting room. Thirty to 40 minutes wait at 6:30. Little Pub’s free selfie machine kept a gaggle of little girls entertained for a bit.
Pro Tip: While you wait, look at the menus and figure out what you want so you’re ready when you get a seat. The beer list is extensive, from high craft to low-brow cool. I chose a tap special, Evil Twin IPA from Brooklyn, and ordered it the second we were seated at a high-top table in the bar area. Our server was a pro; she took our complete dinner order and brought our food promptly.
The dining rooms and bar room were less noisy and more spacious. Guests were a cross section of the families, older people, single people at the bar, and tables of ladies. At one table, a family dove into an order of the “3 a.m. at the Diner Fries,” with melted cheddar cheese, bacon and gravy, (an Americanized version of Canadian poutine).
At our table, fish and chips ($17) reigned supreme. Crisp packets of beer-battered cod crackled open beneath our forks to reveal a steaming thick white fillet. Ask for the malt vinegar to go with it. The big pile of fries had a buttery-oil flavor. Little Pub’s signature bacon jam burger was ordered medium but served deep pink. Spicy with fresh sliced jalapenos and smoky-sweet, in a barbecue sauce way, from the bacon jam, it had a thick layer of roasted garlic cream cheese.
Salt & Pepper calamari were coated in crisp panko, greaseless and tender. Alas, on the evening we tried the flavorful pork and kimchee dumplings, the deep-fried wrappers were greasy.
Kalestorm! – the name sounds more exciting than the taste of this contemporary Greek salad. Despite olives, artichokes,feta red pepper, tomatoes and cucumbers, eating raw kale still felt like an obligation.
Little Pub, 2133 Black Rock Turnpike, Fairfield, is open Monday through Sunday, 11:30 to 10 p.m. 203-612-4567 and littlepub.com.
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