Fryborg: Gourmet Fries, With A Side Of ‘Awesomesauce’

In some ways, it’s no surprise to Jonathan Gibbons that he’s ended up with a successful food truck.

“I remember my mom asking when I was a kid what I wanted to be when I grew up, and I said, ‘A hot dog man.’ I suppose it was inevitable that something like this would happen.”

His childhood vision came partially true – but with a focus on potatoes instead of franks. Gibbons, who launched the popular Fryborg truck almost three years ago, has caught the attention of French-fry lovers all over Connecticut with his double-fried Belgian-style frites and wide variety of dipping sauces. His regular New Haven street stops include Science Park and Church and Wall streets, with frequent appearances at state breweries, special events and food truck festivals.

Inspired in part by a trip to Belgium, Gibbons has modeled his fries after the ones served at the iconic stands found throughout the country, but he’s careful to say his product isn’t intended to be authentic.

“I was inspired by what they do, and theirs are amazing. But they use very specific potatoes over there. It’s hard to get the same potato here on a regular basis. We do the Belgian method with American potatoes. It’s like our own thing but I think we do a really good job with it. I’m really pleased with the product.”

During the busiest weeks, Gibbons says Fryborg goes through 1,000 pounds of potatoes (he likes Russets) when preparing for a full schedule of events. The fries are hand-cut and soaked before taking two dips in the fryolator. Each day, the truck offers 12 to 15 dipping sauces: flavored mayonnaises and ranch dressings, BBQ sauces, ketchups, mustards. Garlic-sriracha mayonnaise is a big seller, as is anything spicy, Gibbons said, and he makes sure to have balsamic mayo on hand for the crowd at his regular Wednesday stops. There’s also “awesomesauce,” his own mix of mango mayonnaise and chipotle BBQ.

“It’s hard to disagree,” with the superlative moniker, Gibbons says. “It’s pretty good.”

For a few extra dollars, Fryborg’s fries come loaded with even more toppings. The “assimiliation” fries, with Thousand Island dressing, cheese and chopped onion, are crowned with a fried egg. Papas verdes also get the egg treatment, with salsa verde, pepper jack cheese and a unique “avopeño” ranch flavored with avocado, jalapeño and lime. Cheesy bacon and BLT fries are also favorites.

While fries fly at food truck festivals and weekend brewery visits, Fryborg’s sandwiches are in high demand during weekday street stops: a “grade-school” grilled cheese on sourdough, a patty melt, andouille “po’borg” and a steak-frites sandwich with flatiron steak, lettuce and herbes de provence mayo on a roll with fries as a topping. There’s often a grilled Nutella sandwich, and bacon adds savory flavor to a grilled Fluffernutter on brioche. Truckgoers wash everything down with real sugar sodas in a variety of flavors, with a few designed by Gibbons himself: lavender lemon, coconut cream pie and pistachio cream. Those three are bottled exclusively for Fryborg by Avery’s Soda of New Britain.

Next up for Gibbons and the Fryborg brand: a second truck and a possible storefront, likely in the Milford or Wallingford area, he said. “I don’t think it’ll be much larger than the truck,” Gibbons says of a potential brick and mortar shop. “It just depends on the location. I don’t want to get too crazy with it. I think we have a nice, simple menu that’s working for people so far.”

Before launching the truck in 2012, Gibbons worked several restaurant jobs, he said, as a server, bartender and a manager.

“I tried to get out [of the industry] and escape, but it just sucks you back in. I just like being my own boss. It’s nice to not have to answer to anyone else.

“But it’s fun; you get to meet a lot of cool people, go to a lot of cool places. I enjoy it.”

>>Fryborg parks on the streets of New Haven on weekdays and at special events on weekends. Information: fryborg.com; @FryborgTruck.

Look for a profile of a new food truck each week through summer in Thursday’s CTNow section, and follow the series, with photos and video, at courant.com/foodtrucks.