Cactus Rose has the best outdoor patio in Wilton. Rough wood posts, made from reclaimed barn wood, support the roof. Fans spin from the ceiling, and strings of lights lend a festive air. In chilly weather, an adobe wood-burning fireplace seems to hug guests sitting on the curved, blanketed bench.
Recently reopened after being closed for four months because of water damage from a burst frozen pipe, Cactus Rose has been around since 2011. It’s run by the daughter of the owners of the popular Andros Diner in Tunxis Hill in Fairfield.
The sturdy restaurant has a Southwestern feel. The menu features upscale Tex-Mex, tuna tacos and lobster enchiladas. Cactus Rose does away with the traditional hospitality of chips and salsa. Guacamole can be ordered plain, spicy, or over-the-top. Lobster guacamole ($15) pairs two luxurious, rich textures, creamy and tender-chewy. It’s a love it or “hmmmm” kind of dish. To me, the lobster wasn’t luscious and the guac didn’t rock. No worries; my dining companions polished it off.
Roasted corn chowder ($6) was pleasant, creamy and comforting with fresh kernels of corn, soft cubes of potato, bits of red pepper, and a nice salty smoke flavor from the bacon. We like a little more oomph, so we ask for hot sauce. Our waiter brings bottles of Tabasco and Cholula hot sauce. Dashes of vinegary hot pepper liven up the chowder.
Queso fundito, cheese melted over a base of spicy chorizo and poblano peppers, is a dish not to be delayed by being photographed. The chef’s special touch here is a cilantro “pesto” of cilantro, spinach and shallots. The flour tortillas stayed warm in a covered dish.
Fajitas arrive sizzling in a hot iron skillet, smelling wonderfully of grilled steak and onions ($25). Red onions, yellow and green zucchini and red bell peppers had the flavor of the hot pan, and we tear into warm flour tortillas. The skirt steak is seriously overcooked past our request of medium rare. A small bowl of soupy tomato sauce tasted of chili powder, salsa for those wary of onions, cilantro or hot peppers.
Inside, the dining room has a solid, hacienda feel with a fire place. A big communal table, made of reclaimed wood, is surrounded by antique Spanish chairs, upholstered in cow hide. A wavy mosaic mimics a sunset. The bar specializes in tequilas, and there’s a large selection of margaritas and mojitos made with fresh lime, organic sugar, and rum. The Thorny Rose is spicy with muddled serranos. We drank iced tea, a delicious brew of black tea with the floral note of hibiscus.
The owner notes the popularity of the Latin fusion dishes, created by Cactus Rose’s chef, a Brasitas alum. The seared wild shrimp in garlic sauce over plantains is one of the most popular dishes. There are daily fish specials for the health-conscious clientele.
>>Cactus Rose, 5 River Road, Wilton, is open Sunday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; and Friday and Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Information: 203-762-8484 and cactusrosewilton.com.
