Bogey’s is back — the golf-themed Westport haunt, closed by Hurricane Irene floods in 2011 — has reopened in Norwalk. For 17 years Bogey’s, less than a mile from downtown Westport, was a favorite neighborhood hangout. Now in the former Ash Creek Saloon, Bogey’s has an all-day New American menu.
Yes, there are burgers, steaks and Caesar’s salad, but many of the 19 small plates have Latin flavors. The menu itself has the retro golf-club look, but it’s large, so large that it’s an awkward fit on the bar or and high-top bar tables.
The big square bar, with tables in sunny, windowed nooks, is a natural meeting place for friends and to share plates. Oysters fried in spiced masa batter ($14) were served in oyster shells filled with smoky, hot chile-flavored sour cream good enough to slurp. The crunch, spice and creaminess hit all the bar-food requirements.
St Louis cut ribs ($9) were meaty. Trimmed of cartilage and the flap meat, the neat cut disappoints those who like to gnaw on the whole rib, but I enjoyed the meaty richness, especially with a sprightly vinaigrette-dressed fresh baby arugula salad on the plate. The ribs come with a choice of three sauces, and the Shine on Georgia Moon Whiskey sounded original. The night we tried it, the sauce had a bitter, unfinished flavor of ground chiles, a lack of roundness.
Ribs are messy eating, and extra paper napkins should be delivered with them. The cloth dishtowel napkins were too nice to stain. Our waiter, returning to the table, noticing our sticky hands, offered to get wetnaps.
Corn and Clam Chowder ($8) is a comforting, clubby and filling soup, cheered here with sweet, grilled corn, deep clam flavor, tender pieces of littleneck, soft lumps of potato and smoky bacon. Lemon Crab Cakes ($14) sounded appealing, and our waiter told us they were great. The two small cakes didn’t live up to the “jumbo lump” and lemony description, but the pickled jicama, slivered thin in an ode to ginger, was crisp, with palate-cleansing sweet vinegar.
As befitting a taproom, Bogey’s offers a selection of craft, international and domestic draft and bottled beer, and the prices, ($4 to 6.50) are reasonable. From the specialty cocktail list, the Belltini’s smacked (yes, smacked, our waiter said) whole basil leaf releases its aroma as you bring this potent blend of vodka, grapefruit, lime and mint to your lips ($12). Of the wines I was happy to see Gruet’s cava and rose, made in New Mexico.
On a recent happy hour, one of the owners greeted guests from his seat at the bar. Waiters shook hands with patrons.
Bogey’s Grille & Tap Room, at 2 Wilton Ave., Norwalk, is open Sunday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; and Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. For more information, call 203-957-8686 or visit bogeysnorwalk.com.
