It’s one of the most mispronounced food items on menus. But whether you say it like “YEE-ro” or (incorrectly) like the first syllable in “gyrocopter,” Greek gyros are pretty objectively delicious.
At Ambrosia in Cromwell, a cheery Mediterranean café on Main Street, gyros and gyro variants make up nearly half of the menu, along with freshly made crepes. One of the first things you’ll spot behind the counter is the rotating doner machine, loaded with a stack of pork chops that drips with juices and fats as it cooks slowly and evenly. In the words of legendary “Parks and Recreation” character Ron Swanson: “There’s a hot spinning cone of meat … I don’t know what it is, but I’d like to eat the whole thing.”
That well-seasoned broiled pork is shaved and piled into grill-crisped warm pita bread with tomatoes, onions, tzatziki … and French fries. While that sounds like the latest fast-food chain stunt, it’s a common preparation in Greece — and seems to be met with mixed opinions, according to Ambrosia’s online reviews. We respected this nod to authenticity, but the fries were better outside the pita than in, as they quickly became soggy from contact with the cucumber yogurt sauce.
Gyro pitas, grinder sandwiches and platters are also served with grilled chicken or mixed vegetables. For lighter options, Ambrosia offers two salads ($6.99), an eponymous version with romaine, apple and walnuts and its traditional Greek with feta.
Crepes, made to order on a circular griddle, feature both sweet and salty options. Savory creations are served with pork gyro meat and chicken bundled with vegetables, cheeses and tzatziki, as well as a breakfast-ready stuffed crepe with choice of bacon, ham or hard salami, two eggs and mozzarella. The spinach and Brie version ($8.50) skips the meat but is plenty satisfying, with artichokes, tomatoes, mozzarella and olives joining the presentation.
Dessert crepes ($6.50 to $7.50) pose difficult choices for those with a sweet tooth, with assorted fruits, a spread of Nutella and a drizzle of chocolate or caramel. The “classic” doubles up with both strawberry and banana, and the unique Romanian crepe combines butter, sugar, cranberry sauce and Brie with a sprinkle of powdered sugar. We opted for the banana crepe, enjoying the dusting of cinnamon amid the chocolate syrup and the rich, warm Nutella.
Ambrosia does European-inspired food proud, but the staff also makes a solid breakfast sandwich ($5.50) Two eggs, melted American cheese and your choice of meat (bacon, ham, salami) are ideally proportioned on a hard roll, perfect in traditional simplicity.
The décor is attractive, with blue accent walls evoking the cerulean domes of whitewashed Greek Islands buildings. Service is casual, with counter ordering, but friendly and helpful. It’s a great place to linger over breakfast, lunch or dessert, with a cup of Illy coffee and good conversation.
Ambrosia, 548 Main St., Cromwell, is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. and Sunday from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. 860-613-0203, goambrosia.com.
