I moved east of the river a couple of years ago and immediately began a search for an Indian restaurant near my house. Most people look first for useful landmarks like grocery stores and post offices in their new neighborhoods; my priority was a new go-to for chicken korma. Within weeks, we’d become regulars at Utsav in Vernon, its forgettable strip-mall location belying its excellent food, bright and attractive décor and prompt, professional service.
But while the Vernon restaurant’s interior is clean and cheery, it’s nothing fancy. So when we visited its newest outpost in Wethersfield, which opened in late fall, we were surprised to find a vast, gleaming, citified space: functional bubbling fountains in the foyer, vibrant uplighting, decorative branches, glossy tiles and a fully stocked backlit bar. As it turns out, the swank design was left over from Utsav’s Thai predecessor, Tamarind.
Utsav’s regular menu features an interesting blend of northern and southern Indian delicacies; you’ll find your standard tandoori-grilled meats, tikka masala, vindaloo, biryani and curries, and more than a dozen vegetarian entrees. The restaurant’s weekday lunch buffet, at $10.50 a person, is a great way to take a tour of the cuisine.
Expect to find plenty of veggie options in the steam trays. During our visit, the non-meat entrees and sides actually outnumbered the others. We sampled excellent navratan korma, mixed vegetables bathed in cashew almond sauce; beans and carrot poriyal, a mild dingri saag with mushrooms in a creamy spinach sauce and chana baingan, a hearty chickpea and eggplant mixture. Aloo bonda (fried potato dumplings) were delicious starchy indulgences, especially with the recommended coconut chutney.
Lamb mappas, chunks of tender lamb in a coconut stew laced with curry leaves and spices, was exceptional, and the brick-red chicken vindaloo delivered a slow burn, the kind of heat that sneaks up on you and smolders in your mouth long after you drain your water glass. Chutneys, sauces, condiments and kheer (rice pudding) occupy their own section of the buffet.
And then, there’s more food. Once you’re settled at your table with your first buffet plate, neatly dressed waiters bring out sizzling tandoori chicken plated on a bed of onions and peppers and a basket of warm naan. The fresh tableside delivery is a nice touch, and you can always ask for a bread refill. (We did. Of course.)
Utsav hopes you’ll return repeatedly for its buffet, as noted by its “buy 6, get one free” stamp card (available only for dine-in on weekdays.) But if you can’t spare the time – or the stomach space – for a leisurely all-you-can-eat lunch, the restaurant also offers lunch “boxes” with vegetable, chicken, lamb and tandoori entrees. All lunch boxes ($7.50 to $8.50) include basmati rice, veggie of the day and naan bread.
The weekday buffet is available from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; a weekend brunch buffet served from noon to 3 p.m. is $14.50.
>>Utsav, 1115 Silas Deane Highway, in Wethersfield, is open daily. The weekday lunch buffet is available 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; the weekend buffet from noon to 3 p.m. Dinner is from 5 to 10 p.m. Information: 860-563-1818.
