By NICK CAITO, Special To The Courant
November 14, 2013
Burger joints these days range from the simple to the gourmet, from the reasonably priced to the not so much, but there's a place in the center of Newington that puts its money where its mouth is: GoldBurgers.
THE VIBE: GoldBurgers isn't a fancy place. There's no mood lighting or silverware. But it also doesn't have a drive through. The walls are painted a mellowed mustard-gold color and adorned with various pieces of burger-related art.
THE FOOD: Online-reviews and real-life conversations draw a lot of comparisons to Five Guys. It's easy to see, as a lot of Goldburgers' sandwiches have two patties, and their fries are equally stellar and double-cooked.
But that's about where the comparisons end. Goldburgers offers a beefy selection of menu choices, from the Mac Patty (beef patty and mac and cheese with jalapenos, nacho cheese, pepper jack cheese, and mac sauce; $6.99); the Blue & Gold (with blue cheese and fried onion straws; $6.99); to the ridiculous Fat Cat, a towering creature stacked with lettuce, tomato, onion, mayo, mustard, ketchup, pickles, slaw, bacon, and cheese before being topped with french fries and a fried egg ($9.99).
Then there's the GoldBurger itself, a comparatively simple endeavor of cheese, lettuce, onion, and pickles topped with the secret recipe GoldBurger sauce and potato chips ($6.49).
For those not pursuing patties, there's also a bevy of hot dogs, such as the P.B.R. (pickles, bacon, ranch with onions and cheese, $3.79).
There's a veggie burger option too, if that's your bag.
Fries aren't included, but $2.39 nets a hearty half portion and $4.39 gets a full order. The best bet for sharing is "1/2 & 1/2," a split with additional choices of sweet potato fries, waffle fries, cheese fries and onion rings.
THE BILL: Burger prices vary widely depending (from $4.69 to $9.99), but average around $6.50 per order. If your appetite is big you'll likely want to indulge in multiple items off the menu, which is easy on the wallet as two people can graze for less than $20.
THE PARTICULARS: GoldBurgers is in one of the strips of businesses right in the center of Newington. The red and gold sign is tough to miss. If finding a parking space seems dicey, try going around back for additional parking. The restaurant accepts credit cards, but doesn't take American Express or Discover.
THE VERDICT: As if this state didn't have enough good options for burgers, but if you haven't been yet, move this one to the top of the "to do" pile.
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