On Mondays, sous chef Brodeur creates the Market Monday menu inspired by shopping the food stands. The four-course meal ($35) celebrates local ingredients, including seafood, meat, cheeses, herbs and honey.
The special menu, which changes weekly, will continue throughout the growing season and into the winter, even when locally grown foods are less plentiful. Planning ahead, executive chef Collin is stockpiling summer's bounty. He put up hundreds of jars of strawberry preserves during the native berry season and is pickling vegetables as they come into season.
The extra work to preserve seasonal foods is just part of Collin's commitment to bring local ingredients into his kitchen whenever possible. "I like working with unique things and with unique people," he says. "I'm fully committed to the menu being in tandem with local farmers."
He also likes building relationships with producers, such as Nunzio Corsino of Four Mile River Farm in Old Lyme, which supplies the restaurant with lamb. Collin finds the hour-plus drive to the Stonington docks to buy fish right off the boats time well spent. One such visit to Gambardella's Wholesale Fish produced a signature dish on the summer menu: Filet of Stonington Fluke with Grape Tomato Vinaigrette, Crispy Green Beans and Summer Creamed Corn.
To ensure freshness, Collin buys the fish whole and cleans and fillets it in the restaurant kitchen. His Thursday trips to the Billings Forge market inspired the dressing and vegetables for the dish.
"I go open-minded and don't make any decisions until I see what's nice," says Collin, who last week picked up native cantaloupes for a salad of melon, roasted peas, red onions and a savory-infused oil dressing.
The fluke entree is a mix of textures and colors. The fish is pan-seared and topped with a simple vinaigrette. The creamed corn, a summer comfort food, is a rich counterpart to the lean fish, while the fried string beans add a crispy bite to the dish.
If fluke is unavailable — and it is not a staple fish in markets — substitute halibut, flounder or sole.
Use a hot, hot pan, preferably a cast-iron skillet, liberally coated with a high-smoking-point oil such as canola or peanut, for searing the fish.
Rinse the green beans, but do not dry thoroughly. The flour will stick to the beans more evenly if they are damp. Also, dipping the beans in beaten egg white produces a crisper texture.
The more yellow the corn, the starchier the kernels to thicken the creamed corn, Collin says. His recipe does not contain added cream. Butter swirled into the mixture just before serving makes the dish "taste just like corn on the cob."
SEARED FLUKE WITH CREAMED CORN, CRISPY GREEN BEANS AND TOMATOES IN VINAIGRETTE• 2 (6-ounce) pieces fluke (summer flounder) or any other flaky flat fish
• 15-20 green beans
• 1/4 cup flour
• 3 egg whites
• 1 cup fine bread crumbs