Nanine Hartzenbusch, Baltimore Sun
July 6, 1997
There are trade-offs in life, and no crab house has everything. The one cooled by Chesapeake breezes might not serve Maryland crabs. The crab house with the most consistently heavy crabs might not know how to steam them properly.
One once did -- Gabler's on the Bush River. It's been gone for 10 years now.
These five restaurants are all great crab houses. Close to classic and almost archetypal, they are all great places to gather with your friends, family or visitors -- just not necessarily all at the same time.-- Sun food critic Richard Gorelick