5 PLACES FOR...
Tuna!
May 1, 2007
ctnow.com
Five local places to get tuna in sushi, paninis, melts and burgers.
Izumi
25 Ella Grasso Tpke. (Rt. 75), Windsor Locks
860-292-8888, www.izumicuisine.com
Phoenix roll, $11.50
Deep impact roll, $11.50
Once I figured out that there was a whole delicious world beyond canned Bumble Bee, I was hooked. Cut me some slices of perfect ruby-red tuna or fresh yellowtail and I'll gladly (try to) give up junk food in its place.
Though the special rolls are always more expensive, I always go for them at sushi restaurants since they show off the chefs' creativity and often combine ingredients I'd never think to put together. Perfect example: the Phoenix roll, an imaginative work of art that wrapped up lightly-fried shrimp tempura pieces, fresh tuna and slivered pieces of creamy avocado. The creation was then drizzled with wasabi mayonnaise and a barbecue-type sauce for an inspiring blend of sweet and spicy. Not surprisingly, the tuna stood right out to me in this mix. Sliced thin, then seared, the edges of the fish took on a pleasingly meaty texture that lent substance to the roll.
Tuna was also the star player in the Deep Impact roll, where shrimp tempura was topped with spicy tuna mixture. Mashed with mayonnaise and chili, this tuna blend became the zesty yin to the sweet shrimp's yang. This roll was also laced with the barbecue / wasabi mayo sauce combination, which added another dimension of impressive flavor.
Izumi's Route 75 location, a stone's throw from Bradley International Airport, gets lost in the shuffle of hotels, fast-food chains and rental car depots. But don't miss it. The sushi is fabulous and the waitstaff makes sure you feel that way, too.
-- LEEANNE GRIFFIN
The Elbow Room
986 Farmington Avenue, West Hartford
860-236-6195, www.americanjoint.com
Tuna burger, $9.95
I've only lived in Connecticut for two years, but as far as I'm concerned, there is no better outdoor dining than at the Elbow Room in West Hartford Center. When the sun finally showed its face last week, I headed right for the restaurant's rooftop deck for lunch.
As the rays turned my Irish skin bright pink, I inspected the menu for some warm-weather choices. Though the temperatures were record-breaking and it was hardly time for macaroni and cheese, I was still too hungry for just a salad. I settled on the tuna burger, and swapped the promised red-bliss potato salad for a side of balsamic greens. Healthy and light, but still satisfying -the perfect summery meal.
But when our helpful waiter asked me how I wanted the burger cooked, I hesitated. You see, I usually like my tuna so raw that it's practically still flopping on the plate. I decided on medium-rare, but still panicked a bit when I couldn't see any red. Nevertheless, the burger, which arrived on a crispy toasted Kaiser roll topped with spicy black pepper aioli, was fresh and delicious. The piquant aioli was a great complement to the meaty, juicy tuna patty, and the balsamic greens (though a little too warm for my comfort level) made a tasty, guilt-free side dish.
I left with sunburned forearms, a full, happy stomach and plans to return to the Elbow Room as soon as possible. Be sure to dine (or drink) rooftop style there this summer; the experience will make your day.
-- LEEANNE GRIFFIN
Natori Sushi
1500e Pleasant Valley Road, Manchester
860-648-2288
Lotus Roll, $9.95
Gone are the days of a wimpy tuna fish sandwich on white bread. Once relegated to a monogamous relationship with mayonnaise and celery, tuna has morphed into a true culinary delicacy. The fad for sushi has added to this tuna-frenzy, leading to creative and innovative rolls that incorporate this traditional fish.
As my own sushi palate has expanded, I've become obsessed with the sushi at Natori in Manchester. The fish is always fresh and their interesting selection of rolls and specials allows me to broaden my raw-fish horizons.
The Lotus Roll was my newest discovery on a recent Natori visit. The chefs at Natori combine spicy tuna with cucumber, tempura flakes and asparagus on the inside, with avocado and spicy kani on top. As its name suggests, this roll is pleasing to the eye when presented on a platter with my other choices.
But at first glance, I wasn't convinced. The roll seemed a bit traditional. After all, aren't cucumber, tuna, and avocado common players in sushi rolls at most Japanese restaurants? What really piqued my interest, though, was the unexpected addition of asparagus. There was the combination of zesty spicy tuna, melt-in-your-mouth avocado and crispy tempura flakes. Added to that was the firm, slightly crunchy consistency of the asparagus.
I tried the Lotus with and without the usual soy sauce and wasabi, enjoying the interplay of textures and flavors on my tongue. I shared it with friends. One thing was for certain: the Lotus Roll at Natori is a hit, a creative combo that transformed ordinary tuna into extraordinary tuna.
-- MICHELLE MARINELLI PRINDLE
Emerald's Eatery
1735 Ellington Rd, South Windsor
860-648-2113
Tuna Melt, $4.75
Emerald's Eatery, a great little restaurant in South Windsor nestled in the Super Stop-n-Shop plaza, is one of those places I frequent when I want a quick bite and I'm on a budget.
The restaurant's tuna melt is a combination of two buttery slices of Texas Toast, a couple pieces of gooey white American cheese and their own secret recipe for tuna salad. The sandwich comes out of the kitchen grilled all the way though and served up with a crisp homemade pickle. The pickle alone is worth the trip. Couple the sandwich with a drink and a side of fries and Emerald's homestyle lunch still rings in under ten bucks.
And what I save in cash, I also get back in nostalgia. Whenever I bite into one of Emerald's tuna melts, the experience transports me back to those rainy spring days when I sat eating a similar sandwich at my grandmother's kitchen table. Of course, it could also be the vibe of this local restaurant and the friendly wait staff. Decorated in mauves and blues with touches of topiaries and garden statues, the place feels relaxed and homey. The eat-in dining layout seems to be designed for intimate groups of four or less people, kind of like a standard kitchen table. Perfect for the homestyle meals Emerald's serves up.
If you're interested in snagging one of Emerald's sandwiches, arrive early. The eatery only serves breakfast and lunch, closing at 3 p.m. during the week. Their tuna salad is freshly made and can be served a variety of ways, but no matter how you order it, it's a great catch.
- MARY KATE THOMAS
Guilford Bistro & Grill Café
1016 Boston Post Road, Guilford
203-453-0736
Tuna Melt Panini $ 7.95
Flashback to my childhood days. I'm sitting in the school cafeteria ready to swap lunches. Mom had either packed me a good ol' peanut butter & jelly or a tuna fish sandwich. Either sandwich would be soggy by noon inside my New Kids on the Block lunchbox. But sog or no sog, I always had a liking for that tuna sandwich. The Guilford Bistro & Grill Café recently provided me a more sophisticated opportunity to get my tuna fix with its Tuna Melt Panini with Tomato.
Eagerly waiting my panini, I munched on some complimentary bread and admired the restaurant's atmosphere. Guilford Bistro offers a fairly romantic setting if you want to show your significant other you still got some game. I had been seated at a high table by the window, putting me right in the middle of the action. Pretty paintings decorated the walls while the dim lighting originated mostly from candles on the tables.
When my panini was delivered, I was pleased to see the portion was large. It tasted fabulous, too. The bread was crisp and toasty and the cheese was perfectly melted over the tuna, mayo, celery and onion along with the tomato stuffed inside. The sandwich was served with a lovely pasta side salad, a dish I haven't had since the final BBQ of summer last year. It was a nice alternative to french fries.
From the outside, the Guilford Bistro looks quaint and cozy, reflecting the overall vibe of this shoreline Connecticut town. The menu offers everything from appetizers like Sicilian Calamari and salads ike Matarocca to Bistro Antipasto to a huge list of wraps, paninis and foccaccias. School lunchboxes are optional.
-- ERICA DASILVA
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