Italian Pasta!

April 3, 2007

ctnow.com

In honor of the final nine episodes of HBO's 'The Sopranos,' we bring you Italian pasta dishes with five different sauces - alfredo, arrabiata, pesto, vodka and carbonara - all from local restaurants serving Italian-American cuisine.

Carmela's Pasta Shop
338 Silas Deane Highway, Wethersfield
860-529-9533
Lobster ravioli with alfredo sauce, $11.95

When the barometer drops in the winter, I head right for the pasta with creamy sauce. But I usually retire those heavy dishes when the weather warms up, so I saw this as my last chance to indulge in some comfort food this season. At Carmela's, I ordered a cold-weather standby--lobster ravioli with alfredo, expecting that rich, gooey, cheesy sauce that you know is so unhealthy (but you just don't care because it warms your bones instantly.)

But to my surprise, Carmela's alfredo was as light as a cream sauce could possibly be. It was flavorful and delicate, complementing the equally pleasing ravioli. Sheets of homemade pasta enveloped morsels of sweet lobster, and a shower of Parmesan cheese enhanced the delicious meal. I sopped up every last bit of it with pieces of crusty Italian bread. It was my first experience with fresh pasta, and now I'm spoiled. I don't know how I'm ever going to be able to return to the stuff out of the box.

Located in what looks like the first floor of a house, Carmela's seems to do a brisk to-go business, but we enjoyed sitting in the cozy dining area watching employees scurry by with tray after tray of undoubtedly yummy pasta pieces. The ravioli choices go way beyond meat, cheese and even seafood. Think more exotic fillings like wild mushroom, sweet potato, pumpkin and roasted eggplant. Take some home, with a container of homemade sauce and some fresh mozzarella or parmigiano reggiano, for an easy meal. You can try to pass it off as your own cooking--but I bet you'll feel guilty about it.

And it really didn't occur to me until after lunch that I had just dined at an eatery bearing the name of Tony Soprano's long-suffering wife. Quite appropriate for the upcoming final season of the HBO masterpiece--but this Carmela is all about the pasta.

-- LEEANNE GRIFFIN

Zia's Cucina
393 East Main Street, Waterbury
203-596-3632, www.ziascucina.com
Paglio Fieno $23

My mother is "extremely Italian." She arrived here literally 'off the boat' from Italy when she was very young, so I had the pleasure of growing up in a house full of amazing homemade Italian food. So besides loving my Mom's homemade pasta, I've fallen for my own personal hidden Italian "gem" of Waterbury - Paglio Fieno at Zia's Cucina.

Zia's is a perfect first date restaurant. The color scheme is a trendy deep green and purple with beautiful chandeliers hovering above the tables. It's romantic setting includes a cozy dining room, dim-lighting and brick walls covered with photos of classic celebrities like Clark Gable and legendary movies like "Gone with the Wind." Waitstaff is friendly and accomodating.

Of course I ordered my favorite, Paglio Fieno, and as I was waiting for my meal to arrive my waiter placed bread on the table and poured oil in my small plate to dunk. It was definitely a nice change from the traditional butter and bread. A small cup that looked like it was mixed with chick peas, carrots, and peppers and some sort of spicy dressing was brought out. It was also yummy and had a zesty spice to it with the mix of veggies.

My dish arrived on a huge plate heaped with green and white angel hair pasta, prosciutto and specks of green peas covered in a delicious Parmigiana Regginata sauce. It's a twist on the traditional Italian carbonara sauce. The warm sauce is creamy and cheesy and the flavor of the prosciutto and peas makes a great combination. Each amazing bite made me wish the dish would never end - which was somewhat true since the portion was enormous. Yes, it's one of those meals where pacing it essential. But it is, hands down, the best Italian pasta dish I have ever eaten in a restaurant.

So would I recommend any other place besides Zia's Cucina for amazing Italian food? "Fugghetaboutit".

-- ERICA DASILVA

The Red Onion
855 Sullivan Ave., South Windsor
(860) 648-1235 , www.angelfire.com/film/theredonionpizza
Linguine with Pesto, $11.95

It probably won't happen, but one way the writers of HBO's "The Sopranos' could end the series is with food. That's right, food. Think about it. Characters on the New Jersey mob drama are always eating -- Tony Soprano especially. He's a big guy and food seems to be another way for him to express his anger, affection or power. On the show, there is always "business" being conducted by "the family" over meals, either at restaurants with mistresses, or at home with relatives and a side of tension.

So wouldn't it be fitting if Tony Soprano, in the last episode, choked on his meal and died? (Preferably while dining at Nuovo Vesuvio, the restaurant owned by his good friend, Artie Bucco.) Just an idea.

Well, nobody choked the night I dined out at The Red Onion in South Windsor. For an economical price, accompanied by friendly service, The Red Onion fulfilled my wish to eat pasta with pesto.

Pesto is one of my favorite Italian pasta sauces. It's green, herbal and flavorful, and it sticks nicely to linguine with the help of extra virgin olive oil. The word "pesto" means "to pound or to crush" in Italian, referring to the crushed basil and garlic in the traditional sauce.

The Red Onion is a no-frills, casual pizza & pasta eatery that offers family-style Italian-American dining. On the Wednesday evening I visited, the place seemed to be brimming with the senior set, as well as with parents and their kids. The decor isn't noteworthy, except for a few small murals that resemble windows looking out upon Mediterranean seascapes. Cushy booths encourage patrons to spread out.

I found the The Red Onion's serving of linguine with pesto to be garlicky and plentiful. You can choose from other pasta shapes, too, if linguine isn't your favorite.

As a bonus, pasta with pesto often tastes even better the next day, cold out of the refrigerator.

Be careful not to choke on it.

- MARIE SHANAHAN

San Marino Ristorante Italiano
111-23 Thomaston Ave., Waterbury
(203) 755-1148
Penne Arrabiata $11

San Marino's is the type of place to visit if you're looking for traditional Italian cooking. With its ample seating, stone statues, numerous plants, and a solarium for atmosphere, this restaurant gives you the feeling of swanky dining at a fraction of the cost. And its extensive menu offers the best Italian dishes, fine wines and cocktails, and a number of desserts, guaranteeing that you leave full and satisfied.

I did not have to look at the menu long before I decided on the Penne Arrabiata. In an attempt to try something new, I went for this traditional hot and spicy sauce made of sweet and hot peppers, olives, capers, onions, mushrooms, plum tomatoes and fresh basil sautéed with extra virgin olive oil. Just reading the sauce's ingredients made me want to chug my glass of water.

It only took a short wait until I had a large plate of penne placed in front of me. The menu was not lying when it said this was a spicy sauce. It only took one full bite for me to reach for my water. . Definitely not lacking in flavor or ingredients, the thick sauce was full of so many different kinds of veggies, it was hard to find room on my fork for the penne.

After what felt like endless eating and a refill of water, I managed to eat half of the dish before I couldn't consume another bite. I got the rest wrapped up, and slowly made my way to the door. If you are planning on trying this tasty, but fiery Arrabiata sauce, ask for a pitcher of water on the side.

-- RENEE C. TRAYNOR

Amici Italian Grill
280 Main St., Middletown
860-346-0075
Penne Ala Vodka, $13.99

Arguably one of the best places to dine in Connecticut is Middletown. You have your pick of cuisines: Italian, Mexican, Chinese, Japanese, American. The list goes on. How does one decide? It just depends on your mood. We were in the mood for Italian.

Amici Italian Grill is easy to spot on Main Street, it's right next to the Middletown Police Department. Parking is a bit tight on the street though, as any Middletown resident knows, so head to the parking area behind the building. It offers well-lit parking spaces and it's only a quick walk to the restaurant.

Once inside you may have a bit of a wait for a table if it's the weekend. No worries. Mosey on over to Amici's dimly lit bar and peruse their Martini menu; you won't mind the wait after sipping one of their delicious concoctions. I highly recommend the Watermelon Martini.

We were seated quickly (on a Wednesday night) and our friendly server brought over baked focaccia bread to munch on while we looked over the extensive menu. It's a no brainer: you must try one of Amici's pasta dishes. I decided on penne ala vodka. This flavorful dish comes with fresh mushrooms, scallions and fresh plum tomatoes, tossed with a light tomato cream sauce (for a few dollars more you can add chicken or shrimp). Surprisingly, it's not too heavy, but I found myself getting quite full even though I hardly made a dent in the mound of pasta in the dish.

Amici's pasta dishes are served with a house salad, but for $2.25 you can substitute a Caesar salad, a sure bet.

The atmosphere at Amici's is casual enough for dinner with friends or family; but the soft lighting in the dining room gives it a romantic ambiance, perfect for dining with a significant other.

-- AMY ELLIS

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