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bin 228228 Pearl St. Hartford 06103 860-244-9463 By STEVE & LISA ALCAZARI Hartford Advocate Published: 9/19/2003 What a classy little getaway bin 228 is. A sleek, urban interior is warmed with a nod to that toasty Tuscan color scheme of ochres, mustards and olive. This cozy place is serious about vino, primarily with an Italian origin. In case you didn't get the idea from the extensive wine list on the menu, there are bottles and bottles decorating the walls, all calling out for an uncorking. There are several tables at the front, and a few more that cling to the narrow walkway in front of the tucked-away and handsomely inlaid bar leading to the back of the restaurant. Chalk boards list the wine specials of the day. Though I just stopped in for a leisurely lunch, one nice way to experience bin 228 would be to go with the intent of exploring the by-the-glass wine offerings. A perfect place to develop and perfect those murky but all-important opinions one has about how much higher a Tuscan Brunello is situated than an Umbrian Sangiovese in one's personal wine cosmology. More and more, people have taken to the pleasures of sampling random small tastes of elegant food tapas-style, the try-several spirit can be just as fun and rewarding when applied to the wine list. But, back to reality, I was only there for lunch -- just one glass of wine, no sprawling nuanced explorations of Italy's viniculture. But lunch at bin 228 is plenty civilized, almost Roman, in the best sense. I started out with an order of the beef carpaccio, with arugula and parmesan. As the weather seemed to be making a shift toward autumn, I followed suit and decided on a glass of smooth but confident red wine in place of the lighter whites one drinks in the summer. I ordered a glass of that Umbrian Sangiovese. With paper-thin layers of lovely pink slices of raw beef, coated in olive oil and lemon juice and topped with a small bunch of the fresh greens and crowned with thick shavings of oil-rich parmesan, the carpaccio looked luminous like a painting. This is fitting since the Larousse Gastronomique tells us the dish takes its name from the Venetian Renaissance painter. The finishing touch was provided by our attentive and pepper-mill-wielding waiter. If you've never had this dish because you're squeamish about the raw beef, well you've got to get over it and broaden the palate a bit. Carpaccio is the Italian answer to sushi, light and buttery and lovely to look at. On another visit, a friend and I sampled the olive bowl ($3), which was a nice mix of green and black olives, some huge and firm like an under-ripe plum, some wrinkled and soft, some buttery and small like jellybeans, all soaked in olive oil, red pepper flakes and garlic. Other decadent bite-size items included an assorted cured meats plate ($10), which had deliciously thin slices of prosciutto, sopressata salami and sausage. This was served with half a grilled tomato. We also sampled a bruschetta (toast with toppings) with fig compote, prosciutto and rosemary. I often resist that Italian pairing of meats and fruit, but never regret it when I try it. This was all pretty luxuriant -- the kind of sensory pleasure that one is made to feel almost guilty about at midday in New England. I thought the quick business-lunch police were going to storm in at any minute and drag me back to the office to resume drone-like productivity. bin 228 also serves tramezzini and panini sandwiches -- the one on soft triangular-cut bread with the crust trimmed off, the other on toasted and pressed bread. But don't think that these are mere sandwiches. Here are some of the options: smoked salmon and horseradish cream; goat cheese; olive tapanade and mache greens; sopressata, fontina and arugula; mozzarella, tomato and basil. I tried a tramezzini with pancetta (bacon), tomato, arugula and lemon mayonnaise. Leave it to the Italians to take the humble BLT and turn it into something so light and classy. The sopressata panini was delicious too. The chicken and roasted tomato panini was probably the least interesting of everything we tasted, but it was still quite good. On both visits we finished everything up with a nice tiny cup of strong espresso, with an intimidating layer of the creamy foam on top. These came with mini biscotti -- all the dessert we needed. Everything was perfect. By KORKY VANN The Hartford Courant Published 5/22/2003 Named for the wine bins that line its walls, this sleek eatery features light but innovative Italian fare, smooth service and sophisticated decor. More than 60 wine selections are available by the bottle, and 20 can be ordered by the glass, which make it a perfect see-and-be-seen-spot for a quick bite before the theater or for a late-night drink. Dining choices range from salads, cheese and smoked meat plates to bruschettas, tramezzini (an Italian variation on the tea sandwich), paninis (grilled sandwiches) and sweets. The goat cheese with mixed greens topped with slivered almonds and fresh pear salad offers a pleasing fusion of strong flavors; crunchy bruschetta lathered with fig compote and topped with silky prosciutto brings a taste of Tuscany to downtown Hartford. The goat cheese, olive tapanade and mache tramezzini, served on sturdy bread (crusts trimmed) is finger food at its finest. The salty olive spread and creamy cheese blend well with the slightly bitter mache greens. Panini options include Portobello mushroom with sun-dried tomato; chicken, oven-roasted tomatoes, astago and arugula; mozzarella, tomato and basil; and more. Panna cotta, gelati and assorted biscotti head up the dessert list. The location is urban, but the ambience evokes sunny Italy with its warm brick walls, burnished wooden wine bins and light tile floors. Hours: Mon.-Wed., 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Thu., 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri., 11:30 a.m.-midnight Sat., 4 p.m.-midnight Map | Printer-Friendly Page | Email to a Friend
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